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Hiroshi after the direct start (10-)
Start up the obvious crack on the north side of the mono bridge, two meters left of the start for "Dream of White Dragons." Easy hand jams and face holds lead to a scramble up to the overhang of jumbled flakes. Pump up this to the roof, and duck left, surmounting the ledge. Plug a #1 (probably with a long sling) in the higher of parallel horizontal cracks, sack up, and lean out over open air. When you can reach the horn around the corner, swing a foot up for a bomber heel hook or high step. Finish on easy jams to a weird anchor setup.
Approach for Long Lane. Start up the crack closest to the north side of the mono bridge, furthest left on the Pacific-oriented face.
Gear to 2"
316 steel (2011)
BETA PHOTO: Dragonslayer topo
By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Mar 22, 2015
There is a slightly harder start just above the monobridge. This climbs a thin juggy flake that joins with the route about 25 feet up. It is definitely a more enjoyable start. The book describes this as 10c, but it is 10a at most, though protection is a little tricky down low.