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Hole in the Wall
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Apprentice, The S 
Au Natural T 
Dragonslayer S 
Hole in the Wall T 
Mentor, The S 
Poacher, The S 
Protege S 
Swiss Cheese T 
Transgression T 
Warden, The S 
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YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tod Anderson
Page Views: 1,787
Submitted By: Dougald MacDonald on Sep 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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BETA PHOTO: Dragonslayer and Transgression, as seen from the a...

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


This is a long route that diagonals through three sections of hard climbing. Rain kept us off the third crux but also revealed a good way to do this route at 5.11c: after the second crux, climb the easy hand-size crack to the right and then reach right to the anchors on Holey Joe; this flows well and allows the 5.11 climber to climb the brilliant first 80 feet of the route.


QDs, hand-size cams for the escape variation.

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By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Aug 9, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

You wouldn't know it from the base, but this might be one of the top 10 routes at Devil's Head. Superb rock, amazing movement, and great position. Good rest in between the cruxes keep the climbing easy for the grade. Get on it!
By Jeremy
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 1, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I agree. This route is really amazing. A little lichen cleaning would make it even more enjoyable. I got sucked into going left on good holds at the upper headwall and took a ride. Staying on or near the arete made more sense in the end.
By Christian Mason
From: Westminster CO
Sep 19, 2010

I disagree - stay left on the headwall at the top. It's a little steep, but the holds are better than you'd expect, and it flows really well.

Really enjoyed this climb.
By slim
Jul 23, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Absolutely stellar route. Yhe rock is really neat, the bolting is excellent, and the climbing is fun as hell. Pretty long route, so if you have a 60, keep an eye on the end when you are lowering/rapping. I wouldn't recommend a 50 (not sure if anybody even still uses a 50 these days). Man, what a fun route - do it!
From: chatfield lake ,co
Sep 16, 2012

Last weekend our group left one alpine draw near the top of this route on accident. If anyone happens to snag it, please send a personal message and we can get it back to the rightful owner. Thank you! What a fantastic route!!
By the schmuck
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 1, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Going left on the headwall has bigger holds but is much more awkward. After I fell going left, I went right, climbing the arête, and felt much more solid.
By Pink Thunder
From: Lakewood
Aug 12, 2017

Great route. Honestly felt a bit easier than Protege, and some other 11d's I've done, but I won't argue with the grade.

I went left on the final headwall and had to traverse back right to the arete. Looks like three different ways to pull the crux.
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Aug 14, 2017

The original rating assumes going straight up on the final panel, which is admittedly a bit contrived. It is possible to avoid that on both the left and right, reaching over to make the clips.
By michalm
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 11, 2017
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Good climbing until the top. At the top, the bolt line is really absurdly contrived as the natural line goes up and left to the handcrack and clipping the bolts from the natural line is rather difficult if not a little sketchy. I recommend bringing a hand-sized piece or two and some slings or long draws and following the natural line to the top. This would be a 3* route if one follows the handcrack at the top.

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