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My first trip to the Red
A short pitch, but the whole thing is good. THe brevity of it is mitigated by the chance to climb it, AWOL, and Crazy Fingers all back-to-back, for 150 feet of great climbing, all at ~ the same grade and character.
Just a few feet right of A.W.O.L. is a second climb of a similar grade, perhaps a shave harder. Your success on this climb is dependent on having some finger strength, and on finding and using some thin footholds. The monos are not 'hangers' because you have good feet to hold your weight, they are just for holding you in, so the stress is not incredible. The route also gets easier as you progress.
After the approach to Roadside Wall, stay right and as soon as you come under a bulge and into the main wall amphitheatre, you will see 3 sport routes in close proximity on a bulging wall to your left. Dragon Slayer is the center of the three and can be distinguished by the two "mono" pockets about 5 meters up.
5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Be careful clipping the second bolt- it is best to climb an extra move and clip from the good hold than to hang out below and pull extra slack.
***Climbers MUST NOT climb at GFNP without a daily permit per person in each group.***
This route is privately owned and requires
a daily per-user permit obtained from the Graining Fork Nature Preserve website.
This isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit--this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges. Don't be selfish--get a permit.
Emile climbing with his middle fingers and his ton...
By Chris Chaney
From: Stanton, Kentucky
Nov 14, 2006
I think this is the least in quality of the three (four) tens. There is a danger of decking if you don't pick the right clipping holds at the second bolt.
Apr 2, 2007
Classic pocket pulling, very popular
Jun 7, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Make sure you warm up your tendons if this climb is pushing your limit, the monos are demanding.
Oct 21, 2009
I didn't find the mono moves to be all that hard, I only used one of the two and the feet were really good. That being said this is the first 5.10 to spit me off in a long time. My ego convinced me to go for the anchors where i quickly took to the skies.