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Routes in 3. Dragon
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Dragon's Breath T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Dragon's Butt TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Dragon's Fins T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Dragon's Rib TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dragon's Spine TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Dragon's Throat TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flightless TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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other Butt TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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other Spine TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Smelling the Smoke TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | TR, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | TR Ken Roberts |
| Page Views: | 681 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Aug 28, 2016 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Variety of interesting sequences.
First up along the left side of the big tree (dirty). Or more interesting (and cleaner), start up the right side of the big tree, but without using the tree at all - (nor the left-facing flake farther right).
Next up the mini-arete which rises up from the big tree (without using the mini-gully on its right). Then up in the wide gully to a crack in its center (above a small bulge). Up the crack.
. (Variation: Also fun is to make a big step to the left side of the side gully, and up left-facing flakes).
A gentle section up to the top rock. Finish with two small roofs. Can take the lower one with a left-facing side-pull / horn. The upper mini-roof is left of the wide crack between the main rock and detached obvious nose. Climb over this without using holds on the crack.
warning: Loose rock is still a concern here. Belayer or other members of party should not stand anywhere near underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
First up along the left side of the big tree (dirty). Or more interesting (and cleaner), start up the right side of the big tree, but without using the tree at all - (nor the left-facing flake farther right).
Next up the mini-arete which rises up from the big tree (without using the mini-gully on its right). Then up in the wide gully to a crack in its center (above a small bulge). Up the crack.
. (Variation: Also fun is to make a big step to the left side of the side gully, and up left-facing flakes).
A gentle section up to the top rock. Finish with two small roofs. Can take the lower one with a left-facing side-pull / horn. The upper mini-roof is left of the wide crack between the main rock and detached obvious nose. Climb over this without using holds on the crack.
warning: Loose rock is still a concern here. Belayer or other members of party should not stand anywhere near underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Location
Below a very large tree on the right side of wide dirty gully on left side of Dragon slab. A few feet left of the obvious nose at the bottom of the Dragon slab.
--> See on this routes Photo
--> or on this routes Photo
--> or on this routes Photo
--> See on this routes Photo
--> or on this routes Photo
--> or on this routes Photo
Protection
To set up Top-Rope, see Description of Dragon area.
Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
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