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Dragon's Lair 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Craig Luebben, Greg Murphy
Page Views: 1,692
Submitted By: Patrick Kingsbury on Jun 5, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Oh the humaaaaaanity!!! ugh!

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


The Dragon's Lair is a very challenging 150' squeeze chimney. The start of the route is loose and chossy, but quickly turns into a classic and brutal splitter squeeze. The crux, besides endurance, is fitting through a difficult bulge. You'll know when you are at the crux when you can't get back out of it. Double rope rappel from 2 drilled baby angles.


On the far right of "Dead Man's Buttress". Obvious from the road.


2x #4 BD cams, 1x #5 BD cams, 2x #6 BD cams, 2-3x green Bros, 1-3x blue Bros, 1-1x #9 Valley Giant is useful (and not luebben approved).

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Rock Climbing Photo: Entering the lair
Entering the lair

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By Shanti
Jun 5, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Leubben originally gave this route two stars but it's one of the coolest squeeze chimneys in the desert. Prepare to suffer, cry, hyperventilate and vomit in style through 120' of a squeeze comparable to Liquid Sky but tighter in some places. This route has rarely if ever seen a repeat as Pat and I found what was likely Leubben's original sling at the anchor in May 2010.

Consider laying off the cheeseburgers for a week before attempting to squeeze through this one.
By Greg Cameron
Mar 15, 2017
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I must admit that I didn't see this as a particularly tight squeeze chimney. Also, you get plenty of rests on small stances. Don't get sucked in to going deep in the crack at any point in which you have a choice. Stay outside with potentially less protection but easier (wider) chimneying.

I brought extras, but only used 2 #6 Camalots and 1 #5 along with a Valley Giant (optional) and a couple of #3 Big Bros. Bring a few smaller cams for the pre-OW start. You'll probably want an additional Big Bro if you don't have the VG.
By Big Bert
From: Golden, Colorado
Apr 23, 2017

Super rad route and must do! Bring the wide game and watch out for the loose blocks up top! A few small pieces for the bottom, 2x4's, 2x5's, 3x6's, 2x green bros and 2-3x blue bros sew it up really well. If you bring a VG #12, you are pretty much on top rope the last half of the route. Bring 3-5x blue bros if you want to sew it up and don't have a VG #9 or #12.

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