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Dragon's Back  

Hueco: V3 Font: 6A

   
Type:  Boulder, 9'
Original:  Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
FA: Jake Perry
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 168
Submitted By: Jake Perry on Jan 9, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Dragon's Back, with start holds and line of travel...

Description 

This is a great climb that has some tough moves that flow well on cool holds.

This starts with good left hand crimp and a sweet right hand sloper pocket with some good feet. Get an awesome right hand sloper pinch, figure out your feet and one of a number of possible left hand holds then fire for a jug. Top out. Downclimb using the tree, go down the back of the boulder, or just hop down.

There is a variation that adds one move. It starts with the right hand instead on the big undercling/sidepull thing that's closer to the left hand start hold. This way makes pulling off the ground harder and adds a crux first move, making it probably V4+. It's not as good as the normal line.

Location 

On the same boulder as The Dungeon and Another One Bites The Dust, in the South End Welcome Boulders.

Protection 

One pad could work, but it'd be nice to have two or a big pad, the landing isn't amazing. A spotter would be nice too but really isn't needed.


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By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
May 19, 2016

This one of my favorite climbs in the area and definitely the best line on this boulder. It's one of the problems I find myself doing every time I'm in the area.

There is a detached jug at the top of this climb, the only reason why I leave it where it is is because it prevents stuff from getting underneath one of the jugs that you actually use on the climb, and prevents you from pulling out instead of down on the jug, probably prolonging the life of the hold. So please leave it there it doesn't come into play on this climb at all anyways.

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