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Dragonerwand

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Dragonerwand Rock Climbing 


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Location: 49.83796, 11.06956 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 92
Administrators: Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Mar 5, 2014
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Description 

This crag has a pretty good range of difficulty, height, and quality of rock. The routes climb features instead of depending on pockets, which is rather typical of the rock around Bamberg. The range of difficulty on this crag (which is actually the right side of the Dragonerwand) is from 5+ to 8- on the UIAA scale, which translates roughly to 5.7-5.11c. The height varies from about 12m up to 20m. And the stone quality varies from very good to extremely friable, so watch out for falling rocks and consider wearing a helmet.
After climbing, head into Frankendorf for some good food at Gasthaus Saffer.

Getting There 

From Frankendorf, travel towards Tiefenhöchstadt and park in the little spot on the left 500m after the end of town and immediately before the little bridge in front of a shed. Walk back on the street for about 80m and head up the forest road on the right. Follow this uphill for 600m until you see an obvious path on the left which is flat and crosses below the crag. Follow this 200m and head uphill to the route of your choice.

Translation 

The name may be somewhat misleading. It actually translates to "Dragoon's Wall".

Climbing Season

For the Frankenjura area.

Weather station 11.2 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Dragonerwand

Borschertweg 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  Europe : Germany : ... : Dragonerwand
This isn't a very pretty climb, but I found it really interesting. The book says it's easier after the 2nd bolt. However, I found it to be a different kind of difficulty.The route starts out bouldery up to the 2nd bolt. In fact, stick clipping the first or placing a nut in the crack before it will do a lot for keeping this route comfortable. From the 2nd bolt, you have to follow the odd crack up and left where you'll find that the crack climbs like a sloper rail in the middle, making it pretty t...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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