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Dragon Pole 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jeff Wang (08/91)
Page Views: 50
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Dec 1, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Route topo

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This route climbs mostly through ramp-like 5th class after a seriously hairy boulder problem to get up into it. The holds are good, but as the 2007 guidebook states, "it may be difficult for shorter climbers." Since you're essentially wrestling this monster upside down with a rack of trad gear, no protection, and you're falling backwards onto a steeply sloped platform and into a shallow pool, you might want to bring a crash pad and/or a gaggle of spotters. Alternatively, you could start up Basement Corner and traverse left across the wall and into the chimney.

Once established, you run it out through super-easy terrain for a good 30 feet until you get to the roof, where you traverse left (5.7), continue up by any path you choose (probably avoiding dirty cracks and bushes) to a ramp where you can belay. I would recommend continuing the last 20 feet to the anchors atop the cliff, where you can enjoy a beautiful panorama of the east coast below you.

Be sure to use runners for any early protection, and for the leftward traverse, especially if you're planning on going all the way to the top.


Far left side of the Basement. Start below the wide chimney.


Gear to 3"

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