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Wall of the Dragon
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Dragon Fly S 
Dragon Slayer S 

Dragon Fly 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Joan Johns, 2005
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 120
Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Natasha leads 5.9.

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  • Description 

    This is a beautiful route on the upper NW Face of the Third Tier of Avalon. This is the Wall of The Dragon and is around to the right from the ?second pitch of Ancient Light?, though it cannot be accessed from Ancient Light.

    Follow approach directions given in Wall of the Dragon.

    The route begins just up and right from the start of Dragon Slayer. Work straight up via remarakable jugs to clip the first bolt. Continue up and slightly right, et cetera. Stay in line with the bolts and decline any inclination to seek easier terrain out to the right. It isn't easier anyway.

    Protection 

    Five bolts to a 2-bolt ring anchor.


    Photos of Dragon Fly Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: At the 4th bolt.
    At the 4th bolt.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Dragon Fly.  Jug haul past the first bolt, up a gr...
    Dragon Fly. Jug haul past the first bolt, up a gr...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Silly Woody on the juggy start of Dragon Fly.
    Silly Woody on the juggy start of Dragon Fly.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nickie Kelly showing good back-stepping form while...
    Nickie Kelly showing good back-stepping form while...

    Comments on Dragon Fly Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Richard Rossiter
    Sep 11, 2005
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    ...Beautiful rock with immaculate pro in a spectacular setting is a pretty good route. The worst that can be said is that the route is too short.
    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 15, 2005
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    A good pitch; worth the devious approach. We geared up on a spacious ledge at the top of the ramp then scrambled down to the tree to belay. Be sure to anchor the belayer to the tree; this spot is exposed.

    A steep jug haul past the first bolt and some delicate face moves up higher. As Richard says, stay in line with the bolts; the climbing is fun and doable.
    By BoulderCharles
    Sep 23, 2012

    Good climb. We climbed Mystery Tour first, which puts you right at the base of this climb. Definitely worth doing if you are on Mystery Tour (or any of the other climbs in that area).

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