REI Community
West Gully
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Charon's Boat S 
Dragon Direct T 
Knight of Swords S 
Merlin's Enigma S 
Sorcerer's Apprentice S 

Dragon Direct 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Joan Johns, 2005
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 605
Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Oct 3, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Dragon Direct. Start in the gully about 30' uphil...

  • Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Look for 2 bolts up and right from the Knight of Swords. Make steep moves past the bolts, then cruise on gear to a 2-bolt ring anchor near the top. One may also continue to the beautiful ledge at the top of the ramp that runs along the Wall of the Dragon.

    I had a sling with a good locking carabiner around a tree here so you could rappel back into the gully, but some assohole ripped it off. I thought this was Avalon in Boulder Canyon, but maybe it's just another Third World country. You park your car for a little while and when you come back the wheels are gone, the battery's gone, the spare tire and jack are gone, and the clothes you left in the back are gone. Oh, and the seats are gone too. The next thing you know, we'll have rigged elections.


    2 bolts to get started, gear to 2 inches thereafter. Gain a 2-bolt anchor with rings. Lower off or continue up to the ramp beneath Wall of the Dragon.

    Comments on Dragon Direct Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 16, 2006
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Several hard moves past the two bolts at the start. Seemed more like 9+ or 10a than 9. There's a decent stance at the two-bolt anchor at the top of the pitch; you can belay here, bring your partner up, and then easily move up to the tree on the ledge by the Wall of the Dragon.

    We replaced the rappel anchor on this tree: two slings and rap rings. Hopefully, this anchor won't disappear!
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 24, 2008
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    The trad part up top is super-mellow (5.5?) and takes pretty good gear for a climb without a salient crack, per se. A good place to practice more advanced gear placements and runner work, I think.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About