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Dragon Cock-6 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: LD
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 276
Submitted By: Permabeta on Dec 25, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Dragon Cock-6

Description 

At the end of Dragon's Spine, six clips extend to the anchor of DC-6. Step right off the top of Dragon's Spine arête to the thin dihedral/face, and ascend a couple bolts to slightly overhanging terrain. The next two bolts are the crux, traversing left on crimps/pocket to a small ledge. Then grovel your way up an awkward dihedral to the anchor.

Location 

Climber's left of the upper part of Copper Dragon, a ledge on which can provide a rest before the crux sequence. Leaders should leave a redirect or two to prevent followers on TR from swinging into Copper if they fall.

A more difficult variation of the route ascends Silver Dragon (between Dragon's Spine and Copper Dragon). It is a bit run out between the 5th and 6th bolts if you miss clipping the Dragon's Spine anchor, which is easy to do if you remain in the dihedral .

Protection 

Sport, 11 bolts.


Comments on Dragon Cock-6 Add Comment
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By 20 kN
Administrator
Apr 30, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The route is better than I initially expected. The rock quality is not spectacular, but the movement is pretty solid and climbing through the grey thin seam around bolts 7-8 is pretty seller. The route is fairly sustained in the upper section and leaves a nice surprise for you right before the last bolt. While it's not the hardest .12a at the crag it's certainly not the easiest either. I'd give it 2.5 stars.

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