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Dragon Back 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bruce Runmals, Al Swanson, 1989
Page Views: 4,349
Submitted By: John Robinson on Sep 27, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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This route and others (second pitch of North Face, Absolutely Brilliant, Second pitch of North Country, a 5.9 unnamed OW (just right of North Face), and Wall Flower) Start in (or Near) an alcove (Wide flat bench) at the base of the second pitch of North Face. To get to this alcove you can go up Stem Mister then continue up on easier terrain or do the first pitch of North Face. This is a great place to spend the day climbing away from the public. You might even mow the lawn that is there. To access Absolutely Brilliant, North country and Dragon Back you will need to 3rd class (people say this is harder than 3rd class, which it is, but the point is, it's very easy) down and right from the alcove approx 40' and then up an easy section to a bushy ledge that you can traverse along. See the Beta Picture herein for a description.


This is an excellent bolted face climb. The bolts have all been replaced and no gear is required. It shares it's top anchors with Absolutely Brilliant. It is a bit difficult to get to but well worth the effort



Photos of Dragon Back Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Information on getting to an Alcove where you can ...
BETA PHOTO: Information on getting to an Alcove where you can ...

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By Tyson Waldron
From: Reno, NV
Apr 20, 2015

This is a great route to shake the "Trad Dad" dust off... The bolts get continually more spaced apart, but it is totally fair, as long as you keep your head about you. You are never pulling a crux move any further than a bolt at your feet, but there are some committing psychological moves that occur at the, "Don't blow it" space between your last clip, which arguably makes the experience much more classic.

Thought it was a standout route, an excellent example of dike pulling at The Leap.
By Jason Albino
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 23, 2017

Another way to access this climb is to climb through the .11a P2 corner pitch of North Face, which is awesome if you can manage it.

From the top of that pitch, you can do a short, slightly rightward rap from the aforementioned P2 anchor to the small ledge at the base of this climb. This avoids the need to do some sketchy 5th class moves (agree that this is definitely NOT 3rd class, and it definitely IS exposed) or short belayed pitch that would be the other way to access those climbs from the "dish" belay at the top of North Face P1.

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