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Dragon Arch
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Dragon Arch 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bill Robins & Thomas Koch, 1986
Page Views: 1,868
Submitted By: Boissal on Nov 9, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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BETA PHOTO: In the amazing 'Dragon Arch' feature!

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

The looks 

A few feet of groove / hand crack climbing will get you to the feature that gave the route its name: a scary looking arch formed by two stacked slabs of granite. Either worm your way behind the arch, trying not to knock the precarious pile on your belayer, or step out and lieback the damn thing, doing your best to pry it off the buttress. Both choices will bring you above the arch into a beautiful but desperately short finger crack.
This turns out to be splitting a massive detached flake (there's a pattern here). Fear not, scamper up, clip a bolt and launch into the short face above, solving a chickenhead puzzle on the way. A few 5.easy slab moves will bring you to the anchors.

The second pitch follows the slab above the moves left into a corner following rotten crack. Stay away.

Classic in a weird way, well protected and way easier than the guidebook's 5.10 rating.

The place 

This route sits on a short buttress on the lower part of the Dragon Arch area, east of the tall faces and mondo roofs. It can be reached from the Egg by following a loose gully that skirts low-angle slabs, heading up and east without requiring much scrambling.
Look for two detached stacked blocks about 20' up and a red patina face above.

The gear 

1 bolt, gear from red C3 up to a #3 (BD cams), nuts. A #4 fits behind the arch if you feel like lugging it up there.
2 bolt anchor with fresh webbing and quicklinks shared with Two Heads Are Better Than One. Rap off to save your rope.

Photos of Dragon Arch Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Slaying the dragon and stealing his gold!!!
Slaying the dragon and stealing his gold!!!
Rock Climbing Photo: About to get into the Dragon's arch
About to get into the Dragon's arch
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the base
View from the base

Comments on Dragon Arch Add Comment
Show which comments
By Zac Robinson
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 10, 2009

I thought that this thing was a blast.

As in "almost worth the hike" quality!
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Nov 10, 2009

And here I was ready to give it 3 stars...
By samg Gileadi
Nov 10, 2009

Three stars... a little bit of everything on that route. What's not to like?
By Pete Spri
Jun 6, 2010

Fun route!

Also; with a single 70m rope, you can rap from the anchors all the way to the most obvious belay ledge directly under this (the first one that you come to if approaching from the gully).
By zoso
Jun 15, 2010

There's plenty of gear options in the crack proper. I wouldn't place anything in the "arch".
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Mar 21, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Always a blast! The anchor could use some fresh slingage.

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