Dragon Arch Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Lower Dragon Arch area with Hairstyles and Attitud...
The Dragon Arch
is a relatively remote and rarely visited crag in LCC
. Having a route of nearly every grade and almost every style, the Dragon Arch
has an adventure waiting for for even the pickiest climber.
Primarily a traditional, mixed crag, this area holds a lot of history and old school flare. Looking for something wide? Try your hand at the still squeamish Valentine Crack
. Bob Irine, Rick Reese and Ted Wilson's 1963 Valentine's Day sweet treat was later freed by local climbing icon George Lowe and partner Rex Alldredge. Strap on your boots and grovel!
If wide, daring cracks aren't your thing take a spin on Lunar Tick
. Climbed on January 1st 1990, this is quite possibly the first route of the 90's.
Want something new? Say Gimmie Danger
, but be careful what you wish for...this more contemporary line boasts old school flavor! And if you want to mix the old with the new step up to the plate and try the crags most recently freed Enter the Dragon
. An old, abandoned aid line re-equipped and re-run as a two-pitch mega route.
A 20th century crag with some 21st century additions, explore this area's mystique. Just remember, this is the Dragon Arch
- Don't get burned.
Park at the Little Cottonwood
Park and Ride and take the excellent trail out of the NE corner and approach the same as for The Egg
. Once at the lower base of The Egg
, before the last few switchbacks, continue to the right and head around up and right to the Dragon Arch
. See the beta photo with The Egg and the Dragon Arch
for any questions.
Thanks to the SLCA
for the trail.
Climbing Season For the Little Cottonwood Canyon area.
Weather station 3.0 miles from here
11 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Dragon Arch
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Dragon Arch
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Dragon Arch:
Gimme Danger 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Last Shout 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Featured Route For Dragon Arch
Enter the Dragon 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Utah
: Wasatch Range
: ... : Dragon Arch
Enter the Dragon climbs the long and varied corner system to the left of Valentine Crack. To access the obvious, right-facing corner, climb any one of three approach pitches described below. Once beneath the steep, streaked green wall, layback and jam your way up the splitter, fist-to-hand crack to a roof. Undercling right along flakes to a small alcove--home to a decent-sized, rectangular detached block. Move right--past the block--and to the start of a steep ramp. Tiptoe past a slabby bul...[more] Browse More Classics in Utah
BETA PHOTO: The three new routes from left to right. Enter the...
BETA PHOTO: Egg and Dragon Arch
By Craig Martin
From: Park City
Nov 8, 2009
Has anyone around these parts been on Rodeo Girls in Bondage recently?
I am curious about the condition of the fixed gear at the 1st pitch anchor?
By Stevie Nacho
Nov 8, 2009
I did it last weekend. The pins for the first pitch belay seem good. Its easy to back them up with a blue metolius tcu. The first knifeblade at the start of the second pitch (the only good pitch on this route) is junk. I would never fall on it. The next pin on the second pitch (an SMC hybrid angle/knifeblade) seemed good. I did back it up with a lowe-ball and didn't fall on it. I really liked that second pitch.
By Drew_n Nichols
From: Park City, UT
May 14, 2014
Hey all, in a PBR induced stupor we might have left a #3 and .4 camalot at the base of Last Shout (5/04). Anyone out there see them and be willing to return lost booty?