REI Community
Dragon Arch

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dragon Arch T 
Enter the Dragon T 
Gimme Danger T 
Hairstyles and Attitudes T 
Last Shout T 
Lunar Tick S 
Ralph, Herb, Bert, and Ernie T 
Rodeo Girls in Bondage T 
Toymakers Dream T 
Two Heads Are Better Than One T 
Valentine Crack T 

Dragon Arch Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.57426, -111.76793 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 10,641
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: grk10vq on Apr 10, 2005

43° | 32°

45° | 33°

42° | 31°

45° | 34°

51° | 36°

54° | 39°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Lower Dragon Arch area with Hairstyles and Attitud...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


The Dragon Arch is a relatively remote and rarely visited crag in LCC. Having a route of nearly every grade and almost every style, the Dragon Arch has an adventure waiting for for even the pickiest climber.

Primarily a traditional, mixed crag, this area holds a lot of history and old school flare. Looking for something wide? Try your hand at the still squeamish Valentine Crack. Bob Irine, Rick Reese and Ted Wilson's 1963 Valentine's Day sweet treat was later freed by local climbing icon George Lowe and partner Rex Alldredge. Strap on your boots and grovel!

If wide, daring cracks aren't your thing take a spin on Lunar Tick. Climbed on January 1st 1990, this is quite possibly the first route of the 90's.

Want something new? Say Gimmie Danger, but be careful what you wish for...this more contemporary line boasts old school flavor! And if you want to mix the old with the new step up to the plate and try the crags most recently freed Enter the Dragon. An old, abandoned aid line re-equipped and re-run as a two-pitch mega route.

A 20th century crag with some 21st century additions, explore this area's mystique. Just remember, this is the Dragon Arch- Don't get burned.

Getting There 

Park at the Little Cottonwood Park and Ride and take the excellent trail out of the NE corner and approach the same as for The Egg. Once at the lower base of The Egg, before the last few switchbacks, continue to the right and head around up and right to the Dragon Arch. See the beta photo with The Egg and the Dragon Arch for any questions.

Thanks to the SLCA for the trail.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.0 miles from here

11 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Dragon Arch

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Dragon Arch:
Two Heads Are Better Than One   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Dragon Arch   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Hairstyles and Attitudes   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 100'   
Gimme Danger   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
Toymakers Dream   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 70'   
Enter the Dragon   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Last Shout   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Dragon Arch

Featured Route For Dragon Arch
Rock Climbing Photo: Gimme Danger

Gimme Danger 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Dragon Arch
Pitch 1. Climb the first 10ft of Valentine Crack then move right into V groove. Up this then right again past a bolt. Carry on up cracks to just below the top where instead of the wide gravel chimney, finish left and up the easy groove. 5.10 110ftPitch 2. Layback and undercling the right facing/curving corner. 5.10+ 70ft ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Dragon Arch Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The three new routes from left to right. Enter the...
BETA PHOTO: The three new routes from left to right. Enter the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Egg and Dragon Arch
BETA PHOTO: Egg and Dragon Arch

Comments on Dragon Arch Add Comment
Show which comments
By Craig Martin
From: Park City
Nov 8, 2009
Has anyone around these parts been on Rodeo Girls in Bondage recently?
I am curious about the condition of the fixed gear at the 1st pitch anchor?
By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Nov 8, 2009
I did it last weekend. The pins for the first pitch belay seem good. Its easy to back them up with a blue metolius tcu. The first knifeblade at the start of the second pitch (the only good pitch on this route) is junk. I would never fall on it. The next pin on the second pitch (an SMC hybrid angle/knifeblade) seemed good. I did back it up with a lowe-ball and didn't fall on it. I really liked that second pitch.
By Drew_n Nichols
From: Park City, UT
May 14, 2014
Hey all, in a PBR induced stupor we might have left a #3 and .4 camalot at the base of Last Shout (5/04). Anyone out there see them and be willing to return lost booty?

Cheers, ajn

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About