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Dropline Area
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Coffin, The 
Dracula 
Dropline 
Welcome to the Machine 

Dracula 

WI4+

   
Type:  Ice, 1 pitch, 100'
Original: WI4+ [details]
FA: Left -- J. Bragg and A.J. LaFleur, 1973. Right -- D. Bard, 1977
Page Views: 9,331
Submitted By: Kris Gorny on Feb 1, 2008

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Dracula left. Lauren Wilson.

Description 

The icefall derives its name from perhaps some resemblance to Dracula's winged cape. The climb is well visible from the road.

Moderate and one of the most popular climbs at Frankenstein. Almost always in.

Dracula left side: easiest way to go up, about WI4 (easier if hooked). There's a pin at 1/3 height.

Dracula Center:
the steepest line is WI4+/5, depending on conditions (easier than Dropline though).

Dracula right side:
Slightly harder than the left, WI4/4+. An ice dihedral toward the top will take away some of the sting. If the corner has filled in, expect harder climbing.

You can not rap this route with a 60. Possible to TR with a 70 -> don't park here on a busy weekend, it's a lead route.

Common to have parties on the left and right side simultaneously,.

Get there early or get in line.

Location 

From the Standard Route walk about 150 yards along the tracks and locate the trail leading up towards the corner with Dracula.

Protection 

Ice screws. Slings with rap rings wrapped around trees (for both, the left and right sides). Left side has some fixed pro in the rock at 1/3 of its length.

To descend, either rap from the slings or walk off the cliff to the right (trail).


Photos of Dracula Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dracula left. Lauren Wilson on her first WI4 lead....
Dracula left. Lauren Wilson on her first WI4 lead....
Rock Climbing Photo: Lauren Wilson on Dracula.
Lauren Wilson on Dracula.
Rock Climbing Photo: Russell Talbot on the left-hand side of Dracula. F...
Russell Talbot on the left-hand side of Dracula. F...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dracula on January 26, 2008. Climbers of left and ...
Dracula on January 26, 2008. Climbers of left and ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Zach in the final corner
Zach in the final corner
Rock Climbing Photo: Pat McCarthy nearing the top of the right-hand sid...
Pat McCarthy nearing the top of the right-hand sid...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sp-icy
Sp-icy
Rock Climbing Photo: Dracula Right with Dan Kilburn
Dracula Right with Dan Kilburn
Rock Climbing Photo: A bitter cold day on Dracula this ice season 2016
A bitter cold day on Dracula this ice season 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Aaron leads left side of dracula on a super slushy...
Aaron leads left side of dracula on a super slushy...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dracula Left. Climber: Kevin Shon. Photo: Nathan V...
Dracula Left. Climber: Kevin Shon. Photo: Nathan V...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dracula on 2/18/2012
Dracula on 2/18/2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris sinking the tools on Dracula right.
Chris sinking the tools on Dracula right.
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Graham on Dracula right
Chris Graham on Dracula right

Comments on Dracula Add Comment
Show which comments
By chris magness
Jan 22, 2016

This route is deserving of a better description.

Dracula left: usually around 3+, hookfest with good feet. If the ice is fresh (rare, popular!) it'll clock in at 4. There's a pin at 1/3 height. Not worth clipping unless you plan to bail.

Dracula center: Find the steepest line you can. 5.

Dracula right: Slightly harder than the left, 4. An ice dihedral toward the top will take away some of the sting. If the corner has filled in, expect harder climbing.

You can not rap this route with a 60. Possible to TR with a 70 -> don't park here on a busy weekend, it's a lead route.

Common to have parties on the left and right side simultaneously.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jan 22, 2016

Thanks Chris. You can use that blue 'Improve this Page' button above. It sends a note to the original poster so they have more chance of noticing your suggestions and also to the area admins. I wish more people would use that feature so the descriptions can keep being improved and updated.
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Jan 23, 2016

Description updated. Thank you for suggestions, Chris.