REI Community
Black Widow Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bands of Gold S 
Black Widow Recess T 
Caught in the Web S 
Center T 
Consilience S 
Dracula S 
F**k You S 
Far Right, The T 
Fire Down Below, The T 
Gyromancy S 
Kate Moss S 
Mordred S 
Pipe Dreams S 
Resonator S 
Right Side T 
Right Side? aka Bong Session T 
Smoke Down S 
Specter T 
Wired T 


YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Bob Horan & Pat Horan, 1996
Page Views: 3,260
Submitted By: Ben Collett on Jun 11, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (63)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Sending! Crux move, it is not over until you latch...

  • Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Climb the slab leading up to the left side of the steep piece of rock described below on a fun 5.9 or 5.10- slab past 5 or so bolts. Follow 5 bolts up a scoop through the middle of the steepness, making fun technical moves, until you can make a long move to the right arete of the steep face (crux). Swing around the corner and follow easier climbing past 2 more bolts to the anchors.


    Between Gyromancy and Specter is a steep piece of rock with three lines of bolts on it. Dracula climbs the middle of the three.


    12 QDs and something for the anchor.

    Photos of Dracula Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bob Horan on the 1st ascent of Dracula.
    Bob Horan on the 1st ascent of Dracula.

    Comments on Dracula Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By David A. Turner
    Sep 30, 2011
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    5.9 slab, to 5.11 cross through gastons, to cryptic crux, to slightly insecure, 10+, hanging arete. Well-protected. Super fun.
    By Chris Plesko
    From: Westminster, CO
    May 27, 2013

    I really enjoyed this. My first 12b and totally safe and easy to work on.
    By slim
    Jun 26, 2013
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    (Big thanks to Chris for sending me some beta to read during my bus commute!)

    Dracula is a really fun route, although if you don't have really long arms, I could see the last move of the crux as being a bit frustrating. My arms were fortunately just long enough to keep it from being too heinous. I would love to watch a really good, smaller climber do this route - it would probably be an impressive display.

    Couple quick notes: this route makes a good, quick, after work project - there are no tweaky moves, so you don't need a warmup route. The first half is easy and slabby but still really nice climbing. You will want a 12" draw on the 2nd bolt on the headwall, otherwise the rope wants to grind over a fairly sharp edge as you traverse up and right. Also, don't be discouraged if you struggle on your first attempt. It would be a tricky onsight, but once you dial a couple things in, the climbing just comes together really nicely. The last couple bolts seemed like they were placed a bit higher than I wanted, but with some patience, it works out. Some of the bolts seemed kind of old. Not sure if it was the lack of washers that gave me that impression?

    Anyway, do this route - it is pretty sweet.
    By Curt MacNeill
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 11, 2013

    Yes, my girlfriend is 5'1" and did that move completely static. She actually flashed the route fairly easy after watching me. We constantly get on routes where there is a "height" dependent move, and she always figures out a way to do it, usually with just higher feet than most people will use. I did The Juice (12d) last year with a crux I was told couldn't be done unless you're over 6' tall. I'm 5'7" and did the move really easily with some uber high feet. Power to the short people!
    By slim
    Sep 11, 2013
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    By Andy Hansen
    From: Longmont, Colorado
    May 6, 2014
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    Good rock, great clipping stances, awesome movement. I don't think it necessarily deserves 4-stars, but I think 3.5 would be appropriate. The only drawback is that the crux is over all too soon.... Probably a bit harder for shorter folks, but I guess shorties have done it quite easily in the past? Some long draws are nice.
    By Dave Stewart
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 7, 2014

    This is a link to a video of a couple of time lapses I took on the route.
    By Joseph Crotty
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Jul 5, 2016

    Great route. The bolts could use a refresh as the post crux bolt is a spinner, and most of the hangers have an aged look. It's a mix of wedges and sleeves. The anchor could use a make over too as it's sporting webbing now w/ perma biners.

    A few critical large holds on the route are slathered in glue which detracts from things a bit.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About