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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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Doc's Little Brother T,TR 
Dr. Michael Solar T,TR 
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Dr. Michael Solar 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Erickson and Walsh, 1970
Page Views: 2,759
Submitted By: Matt Bauman on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (123)
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  • Description 

    This is a nice steep crack with lots of face holds just left of Positively 4th Street. It is a great climb but quite short...25 feet tops....

    Protection 

    Standard small rack.... Tree at top of small buttress anchor.


    Photos of Dr. Michael Solar Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Working the climb back down after topping out.
    Working the climb back down after topping out.
    Rock Climbing Photo: CM and a good view of the route.
    CM and a good view of the route.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Date:April 10,2003 Halfway up the route. Photograp...
    Date:April 10,2003 Halfway up the route. Photograp...

    Comments on Dr. Michael Solar Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 8, 2012
    By Tyler Jones
    Jan 1, 2001

    There is one move on it that is MAYBE a 5.7, otherwise I would give it more like a 5.5. Rossiter gives this one a star, I'm not sure why. However, this would be a great route for beginners that want to set up a top rope. Hike around to the left and carefully follow the top of the rock around to the right to a tree with slings.
    By Michael Komarnitsky
    Founding Father
    From: Seattle, WA
    Apr 14, 2002

    I'll second the great beginner lead.... short, but you could probably put a dozen pieces in it nonetheless...
    By James Balasalle
    Sep 30, 2002

    I thought this was a fun route and my first Eldo 5.7 lead. I even took a lead fall (I know, I suck), but the pro is amazing, so it was fine. Defintely a good place to start leading 5.7's. And it's even vertical for a while.
    By Anonymous Coward
    May 23, 2003

    This route also has value for the aspiring soloist. Short with postive holds and a simple walk off.
    By Merlin
    From: Grand Junction
    Mar 9, 2007

    This is a good route for people breaking into Eldo 7s. It can be totally sewn up with a red Alien, a number 1 BD, and a set of nuts. It offered me good practice at placing gear under slightly grippy circumstances.
    By Mark Cushman
    From: Cumming, GA
    Mar 8, 2008

    Needs to be longer, but a good route if you are already in the area.
    By Chris Zeller
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 3, 2008
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    I think the 5.7 rating is appropriate. A fun steep climb with lots of jugs. Walk off is easy. A good beginner place. It's too short though.
    By Gary Schmidt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 22, 2008

    Fun climb. Plus from the tree anchor you can traverse a few feet south and build a trad anchor to top rope Positively Fourth Street with if no one in your party is feeling up to leading that route. You can also back up your anchor with a long sling to the tree. When you're done simply take down your anchor and walk off carefully to the north.
    By grant.rudd
    From: boulder, CO
    Feb 4, 2009

    Very reminiscent of a gym route, with good pro all the way up. I found it to take small nuts and a small cam. +1 to a great begninner lead. My first Eldo 5.7 on lead, although it didnt feel like one.
    By Joshinator
    From: Longmont, Colorado
    Mar 11, 2012
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Great climb, but like most say, it really is too short. I would caution beginner leaders that the gear is quite small throughout, though you can find spots for bigger nuts and even a #1 BD. Still, everything is solid and as long as you have a few small nuts and small cams you should be able to sew it up.
    By gregmiller7
    Oct 8, 2012

    A short pitch that can be made a bit longer with enjoyable moderate climbing by climbing the small rotten roof behind the tree, once you get to the ledge and follow a left-facing corner/crack to the walk off for stuff like Pony Express.

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