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Fun, powerful problem involving pinches, body tension and crimping. Start sitting with left hand on big sidepull and right on lowest pinch/sloper/crimp. Bump up with the right to a slope on the little arete and figure out how to use the obvious crimp in the face (hint: look for heel or knee bar trickery). Move to the jugs in the crack and top out.
On the tetris boulder in the East Forest - easily id'ed by the square tetris-y edges lining the face. 50 meters uphill from the stream boulder just off the motorcycle path and 150 meters northeast of the east parking lot.
2 pads - one for the stump your ass will hit on the sit and one for the gnarly block you really don't want to fall on topping out (and won't - they're jugs up there)
By David Speyrer
Sep 16, 2007
rating: V6 7A
Is the sharp, "cube" crimp right of the arete on?
Sep 20, 2007
Sure, might as well be. I thought the crux was getting to it...