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Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in Phantom Wall
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Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Electra T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Finders Keepers T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Nahual S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Zoo Tramp T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m) |
| FA: | Tom Smith, Krista Smith, Larry Von Wald, 1984 |
| Page Views: | 1,063 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | David Jefferson on Apr 4, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Road Closure - Caldor Fire and Dirt road winter closures
Details
Description
Start on the slab south face of the Phantom Wall. Pull onto the slab and make delicate face moves with slopey knobs for feet and long reaches. Clip two bolts before making a long reach left to gain the thin, tips crack. Note that there are two bolts right next to each other at the second bolt - a buttonhead and a newer 3/8". Avoid clipping the third bolt - this will lead to rope drag up higher (the third bolt is for the adjacent face route Eraserhead (5.11c).
Climb the tips crack as it gradually gives good locks, and knobs appear for alternative holds. Once this crack peters out, place a piece and make a face traverse left to gain the fist crack. Follow this left crack to the top and finish by pulling a small roof.
New chain anchor at top can only just make lower with 60 m
There is an older two bolt anchor on top of the formation, but no rap rings. Descend by bushwhacking down a steep gully to climber's right.
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