Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde
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Start on the slab south face of the Phantom Wall. Pull onto the slab and make delicate face moves with slopey knobs for feet and long reaches. Clip two bolts before making a long reach left to gain the thin, tips crack. Note that there are two bolts right next to each other at the second bolt - a buttonhead and a newer 3/8". Avoid clipping the third bolt - this will lead to rope drag up higher (the third bolt is for the adjacent face route Eraserhead (5.11c).
Climb the tips crack as it gradually gives good locks, and knobs appear for alternative holds. Once this crack peters out, place a piece and make a face traverse left to gain the fist crack. Follow this left crack to the top and finish by pulling a small roof.
There is an older two bolt anchor on top of the formation, but no rap rings. Descend by bushwhacking down a steep gully to climber's right.
South face of the Phantom Wall, east of the Lower Spire.
Gear micro cams/nuts to 3". Draws and at least one sling for the traverse.
By Ryan Curry
Apr 10, 2015
This is an awesome pitch, one on my favorites at Phantom Spires. I remember a purple Metolius/blue Alien being helpful at the start of the crack, after clipping the second bolt.
This pitch is worth the walk down to the Lower Spire alone.