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Dr. Hook  

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
Page Views: 3,358
Submitted By: 20 kN on Nov 15, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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One of the most popular routes in the entire state. Start by following a crack that quickly leads from fingers to fists within a few feet. You don't have to use the crack if you dont want to as there are plenty of face holds. Eventually pull onto a small slab ramp and follow a fist crack to a small roof. Mantle the roof and then cut LEFT after clipping the last bolt. Do not continue going straight up and right as many climbers mistakenly do. Place an optional #2 Camalot in the horizontal slot at the top to tame a small runout at the top if you wish. You can also place a #3 Camalot in the lower fist crack if you want to protect the first few moves before the first bolt. The first bolt might be a tad tricky to spot as it's about 15' up. An optional easier start is listed on the topo. Start on the climb on the right side of the formation. This side is slightly easier than starting left by the crack, but it offers less options for trad placements before the first bolt.


Sport. Optional #2 Camalot in horizontal crack up top to help tame a small runout and a #3 down low to protect the start before the first bolt. The route can be done entirely on trad gear if you want.

Photos of Dr. Hook Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climb follows center crack up though roof. Anchors...
BETA PHOTO: Climb follows center crack up though roof. Anchors...

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By Chris Blodgett
Dec 15, 2015

I found this to be a really enjoyable route. I did not lead this but the lip makes for a really fun move. Lots of smearing.
By Adam Schmidt SLC
From: SLC,UT
Dec 24, 2016

Fun route, gear in good condition, but seriously needs a lower 1st bolt.
By Dan Petty
From: Wheat Ridge, CO
Mar 9, 2017

Watch for loose blocks above the roof.
By Derek Field
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 21, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route does not need bolts. It should be a trad line. Continuous cracks offer reliable cam placements the whole way up. I used doubles .75 to 3 camalot and it was plenty. Regardless, if climbing this as a sport route, do not forget the #2 cam for the horizontal near the top. Would be a horrific fall back under the lip if you botched the not-so-obvious swing-across move to the chains.

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