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Dr. Faust S 
Nordwestweg T 

Dr. Faust 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 389
Submitted By: Sean Nelb on May 21, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Dr Faust climbs the slab on the left of the tower ...


This route climbs the skinny southwest face of Teufelsturm and puts you a stone's throw from the Metamorphosis monastery. It has solid, clean rock after the first pitch and stays in the shade in the morning.

Two routes share the shallow, crux concavity on the first pitch. After pulling through, keep going diagonally left, then up to stay on Dr. Faust. Pitches 2,3, and 4 are more or less straight up from the anchors, but keep a careful eye out to spot the bolts. Pitch 4 ends on a pedestal on the right arete, just above a slab. Pitch five climbs the huge cobbles up the steep face to the summit with a few hard-to-find bolts along the way.


Start at the southwest base of the tower, slightly right of the descent gully. The rap line is left of the top out. Two raps with double 50 m ropes reached the gully.


A few bolts per pitch. Pretty good for Meteora!

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