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Dr. Dingle 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jim Shimberg, 1995
Page Views: 67
Submitted By: Eric Leclerc on Aug 18, 2014

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the buttress


For the first three bolts, it's only 5.10 climbing. You either attack the crux straight up but the fifth clip will be really hard or you go take a break on a ledge just left of the fourth draw.
From the ledge, you can take a shake, install the fifth draw and clip it. You will then have to go back down the ledge and to the right to resume climbing and face the brutal crux. I left a little bit of skin on this one. To clip the sixth bolt, you better keep climbing to a jug if you want to avoid a pumpy clip.
The falls looked all good to me so no real runout in this one except from the sixth to the anchor but it's only 5.8 climbing. I would consider this route rather bouldery.
There was a liitle bit of lichen but just at the top when the real thing is over.


When you get to the cliff, you are at the toe. There are two routes starting at the bottom. This is the left one.


6 bolts to an anchor

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By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 21, 2014

Great description eric!
This is one of 2 bolted 11s at rumney i havent done yet... the other is The Mean Lean which i tried but was too tired to send... thing is hard!
thanks for checking this one out for me :)
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Aug 21, 2014

Go for it Lee! Maybe we will end-up going to The Mean Lean together...
We will also have to find a plan to send that weird 11d at Black Jack Boulder...
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 24, 2014

I'm sure we will have to join forces at some point :)
So few others are interested in these oddities... that black jack route is a pain but i think i have a good plan of attack, ill let you know when i plan to get after it.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 31, 2015

I narrowly managed an onsight on this one today... a decent route, a bit sharp but good rock and fairly clean

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