REI Community
Zoo Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Body Suit T 
Closed Heimer TR 
Conflict In Terms T,TR 
Crazy Alice T 
Critical Mass T,TR 
Delete this route, Duplicate! T 
Dihedral, The T,TR 
Dr. Coolhead T,TR 
Extended Altar Call T 
Fantasy Roof T,TR 
Flying Grasshopper, AKA "Richard Pryor Route" T 
Flying Nun Variation T 
Flying Nun, The T 
Knuckle Sandwich T 
Larin Has Balls T 
Leap Frog T,TR 
Little Roof (aka Small Roof) T 
Masters of Reality T 
McBride's Mind T 
No Stone Unturned T,TR 
Resurrection Factor T 
Scrotum Roof T,TR 
Shake and Bake T 
Side Saddle T,TR 
Slap Roof T 
Sloth T 
Squeeze Play T,TR 
Straight Face TR 
Sundown Dihedral T,TR 
Sweet Jesus T,TR 
Time the Avenger TR 
Too Much Fun T 
Triple Decker T 
Unfinished Piece, The T,TR 
Yellow Corner T 
Unsorted Routes:

Dr. Coolhead 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b X

Type:  Trad, TR, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b X [details]
FA: Duane Raleigh, Rick Thomas, Bill Thomas 1980
Page Views: 3,324
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Sep 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
William is working the moves on Dr Coolhead to see...

Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>


Want to test your friction skills? This is the route! Working the steep face on micro edges will have your tips burning and only great footwork will get you through. The lower moves are protected by a small cam in the lower crack and bolts up above. The crux is passing the 1st bolt, with some different options. I prefer to work it straight up focusing on balancy feet. Some like moving right to a juggy ledge to overcome. Work the thin edges to the top and keep out of Alice's crack!


The face just right of Crazy Alice.


2 Bolts and some small cams down low. Chain Anchor.

If you blow the first bolt, a standard belay will let you deck. A dynamic belay can lessen the impact, if not avoid it, so bring a compentent partner. Hopping off the belay ledge as the fall occours seems to be the most effective technique. Get good spotters, and a crash pad never hurt anyone. Except that girl who broke her ankle tripping over one....

Southern Rock 

"Bring a cool head on this one."

Rating History 

Raleigh and Thomas rated this 5.10x using old school ratings. Back when there was only one bolt to protect the crux. Then Chuck's guide placed it at 5.10a RX. Finally Tony advanced the rating up to 5.10dX.

Photos of Dr. Coolhead Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dr. Coolhead - Photo by Brandon Hall.
Dr. Coolhead - Photo by Brandon Hall.
Rock Climbing Photo: John Barritt, '84 or so
John Barritt, '84 or so
Rock Climbing Photo: Jessica working Dr. Coolhead
Jessica working Dr. Coolhead

Comments on Dr. Coolhead Add Comment
Show which comments
By Daniel S
From: Oklahoma City
Mar 6, 2007
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X

I only remember two bolts as recently as August 2006. Has a new bolt been added since then? Also, if you blow the first bolt, you will deck even with a cam placement in the highest crack. In the guide books, the safety of this climb is rated RX.
By Jordan Ramey
From: Calgary, Alberta
Mar 12, 2007

There are two sets of chain anchors at the top. So Dr. Coolhead AND crazy alice can be run at the same time. They are only a few feet apart.
By Andy Chasteen
From: Oklahoma City, OK
Jan 28, 2008

Still only 2 bolts. And yes there is a good deal of space where your cam will not prevent ground fall if you fall before the first bolt.
By Scott Strong
From: Dallas, TX
Apr 25, 2010

Did this route top roped 4/23/10. Beautiful route, fantastic and challenging climb.
By Brent Butcher
Apr 27, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X

I wish this route had 1 or 2 more bolts would make this climb enjoyable.
By Daniel S
From: Oklahoma City
May 16, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X

I originally liked the idea of placing one or two more bolts on the route. However, I feel much more rewarded having waited until I felt solid enough to red point Cool Head as is. I don't think we would be able to call it "Cool Head" if any more protection was added.:) You can always pink point the route via placing long slings on each bolt (5 to 8ft) to make a total of five clips: the cam in the horizontal, the carabiner at the end of the sling on the first bolt, the first bolt, the carabiner on the end of the sling on the second bolt, and the second bolt.
By Chris Walden
From: Soldotna, Alaska
Apr 8, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X

Hard route! Decking totally in play with only two bolts and your first clip is 20 ft up. Use caution...
By NoseyTim
Jun 20, 2016

Top Roped this one and fell at the first bolt and man was I glad I wasn't on lead. It is unfortunate that the crux of the route is 2 feet below the first bolt. However, I thought that the difficultly of the route let up after the first bolt and was more of a 5.10a/b. The crux was a solid 10d/11a move in my opinion. Wouldn't suggest leading this unless you are really solid at this grade.
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Jun 20, 2016

Anyone considering leading Coolhead. Unless you are seeking the on sight, we suggest you lead Crazy Alice first, and hang a long draw or sling on that first bolt as you lower off. A crash pad is worth it's trouble.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About