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Lower Capitalist Crag
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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas and Mary Zuvela, 2004
Page Views: 2,351
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Jun 29, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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BETA PHOTO: Downsizing and Venture Capital. Photo by Vaino Ko...

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This route starts to the left of the approach ramp for Stroh's, and climbs through some broken choss for many clips (EDIT: 5.7), passes the Stroh's approach ledges, and finishes on the north arete to the right of Stroh's. Lower 100'(?) to the ground.

The last 15' were entertaining, where you finally get to quality stone (5.8-5.9). Be careful of loose rock.


12 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos of Downsizing Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Going up on Downsizing.
Going up on Downsizing.
Rock Climbing Photo: Emma Griffith on the lower half.
Emma Griffith on the lower half.
Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoying the sun's warmth for a bit before tacklin...
Enjoying the sun's warmth for a bit before tacklin...

Comments on Downsizing Add Comment
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 11, 2005

The name of this route is "Downsizing", 10c, 12 bolts, first ascent by Vaino Kodas and Mary Zuvela, 2004.

By dan scales
From: Denver, CO
Apr 24, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This thing is Way no fun. Top is razor blade crimps, no feet, on slab bulge. Watch out for the broken glass (really) all over the crag area.
By Brett Bauer
Aug 23, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

I feel this climb lends itself to a 2 bolt crux starting at 5.9 and finishing @ 5.10 then run to anchors. The ledge detracts from the climb, but so what? When everything is backed up (Lunchmoney), it's a good climb to do and away from the masses!
By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Jun 16, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Has the bottom portion of this route changed? I don't get the talk of a 5.5 chossy/worthless section below the 3rd class ramp. Bottom section seemed at least 5.7, almost vertical, and decent climbing. I also thought that the thin, face climbing past the last couple bolts (razor crimpers with not much for feet) felt at least 5.10a relative to other CCC routes. But maybe 9+ by older standards.
By Doug Redosh
From: Golden, CO
Jun 16, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Opening moves more like 5.7 than 5.5. top is 10b IMHO. Bottom is not so chossy, maybe it has cleaned up over the last few years? Some loose rock on ledge.
By Parker Wrozek
From: Denver, CO
Jun 3, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Note that the anchor on the right has a spinning hanger. I hand tightened the nut back down but didn't have any other tools on me.

I thought this was a fun climb except for 3 moves from below the second to last bolt to the good holds above the last bolt. It really pushes the grade past 5.9+ imo (10b?). Half a finger pad crimps with few feet and then slopers by the last bolt. Not really a good hold to clip from.

I thought the bottom of the route was pretty cool maybe 5.7 or 5.8 climbing with a bit of lay back at the start. The middle section is 5.4ish climbing but still kinda fun as you build up to the top.

A couple draws need a pretty good length runner to stop rope drag as well.

By JonW
Jul 25, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I don't get the description of this route (on this page or in the guidebook). The opening moves felt like 5.8 and were not chossy (perhaps a little sandy). The crux towards the top on thin, crimpy edges felt like other 10b's in the canyon.
By A. Bandos
Oct 26, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

I have to agree with the last two comments.

Bottom is not chossy, start is easy but not a walk in the park 5.5 as the book says. The ledge is unfortunate, but I wouldn't write this climb off for that.

The first 7 bolts are 5.9ish, but the ending is thin with no feet. Definitely felt more like 10b for a few moves.
By Andrew Locke
From: Louisville, CO
Jan 18, 2014
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

As a forewarning, this crag was my first foray into CCC. My partner and I both routinely climb 10a and 10b in Boulder Canyon, and neither of us had a clue what to do at the upper crux. Perhaps we missed the sequence, but after we both got spit off and left a bail biner, neither of us thought this could possibly be 5.9 or 5.9+.

All that combined with the definitely not 5.5 beginning and ledge in the middle, and neither of us really enjoyed this one.

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