REI Community
Down Under

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adventures with Kate & Enoch T 
Ball of Confusion T,TR 
Beast From The East, The TR 
Blocks T,TR 
Cape Ann Fingerbang TR 
Charging Rhino 
Chippas Crack TR 
Cloak and Dagger 
Corner Crack TR 
Crippler TR 
Doug's Nose 
Doug's Roof 
Down Over S 
Down Under S,TR 
Eric's Route T,S,TR 
Flaming Galah 
Least Of The Deceased, The TR 
Left Arete Project TR 
No Pro T,TR 
Premature Escalation 
Right Arete Project 
Second Pitch Face TR 
Sleek Streek TR 
Splitter T,TR 
Tony the Tiger T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Down Under Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 42.6196, -70.7266 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,751
Administrators: Joe M., Old Timer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Bjorn on Dec 27, 2008
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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BETA PHOTO: Right end of Down Under.


Have you been to Redrock? You can't get enough of that North Shore granite? Wish there was more? Well, there is.

The following are a few far flung curiosities sitting singly, silently, and largely untrammeled in the woods near the classics Zipper, Laughing Gull, and others at the Main Wall at Redrocks.


Down Under

A. Premature Escalation, V0-, 10'.
B. Sleek Streek, 11- or V1. 12'.
C. ?.
D. Crippler, V1, 1p, 15', TR or boulder.
E. Flaming Galah, V2, 12'.
F. Cape Ann Fingerbang, V3 11, 25'.
G. ?.
Center Left
H? Cloak and Dagger, V2, 20'.
I? Right Arete Project, V3?, 12'.
J? Vegamite, V2, 8'.
K. ?.
Center Right
L. Splitter, 8+ - 9, 1p, 30-40', gear or TR.
M. Second Pitch Face, 10-, 1p, 40', TR.
N. Corner Crack, 8-, 1p, 30', TR.
O. No Pro, 10- R, 1p, 30', gear or TR.
P. Ball of Confusion, 7, 1p, 30', gear or TR.
Q. Eric's Route, 10, 1p, 40', gear & bolt or TR.
R. Chippas Crack, 8, 1p, 40', TR.
S. Tony the Tiger, 6, 1p, 40', TR.
T. The Least Of The Deceased, 10-, 1p, 25', TR.
U. The Beast From The East, 11+, 1p, 20', TR.
V. Down Over, 5, 1p, 20', bolts.
W. Down Under, 10-, 1p, 25', bolt & gear or TR.
X. Blocks, 6, 1p, 20', gear or TR.

The Head
Y. Doug's Nose, V2+.
Z. Doug's Roof, 11- or V2, 1p, 20', gear or boulder.

Close by to the south is Oz.

Getting There 

Since most items in this list sit alone, approaches are listed accordingly.

Per Chris McNeil: follow the main trail from the parking lot East along Route 128 until you pass the storage units. Turn north after the storage units and follow a trail to the pipeline. Head North on the pipeline until you see either Oz on the left or a tree stand up about 10 feet in a tree on the right. Follow the cairns and trail to Down Under. It is approximately a little over 1/3 mile.

Other Nearby Crags 

In the Redrock and vicinity area, there are a number of small crags. To facilitate the user finding these, they have been left in the hierarchy they were submitted which splits them into the general Massachusetts and North Shore / Cape Ann sections. To facilitate a better understanding of their relative locations, we'll list them North to South:

Down Under
nearby Plateau Boulder
Kong Boulder
Master's Wall
Redrock Main Crag
Pink Floyd Wall
Sunshine Wall

Rock Climbing Photo: Redrocks Conservation Area... much more than just ...
Redrocks Conservation Area... much more than just Main Wall and Pink Floyd Wall.

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.3 miles from here

27 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Down Under

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Down Under:
Doug's Nose   V2+ 5+     Boulder, 10'   
Splitter   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Doug's Roof   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+     Boulder, 10'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Down Under

Featured Route For Down Under
Rock Climbing Photo: Gorgeousness and gorgeosity made flesh.

Doug's Roof 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+  Massachusetts : Cape Ann : Down Under
If you like crack climbing so much that you have come to the realization that roof cracks are the ultimate, but you lament your roofcrackless life in the Commonwealth, take solace. Doug's Roof is here for you.The problem begins on a juggy rail which you will traverse to the base of the crack. Suss your initial jam sequence, and head out into the horizontal realm. Feet on the rail will help get you started but, unless you're Wilt Chamberlain, won't get you through. As usual, the crux is turning t...[more]   Browse More Classics in Massachusetts

Photos of Down Under Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: As you approach Down under from the west, this is ...
As you approach Down under from the west, this is ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Center "No Pro" to the left "Ball o...
Center "No Pro" to the left "Ball o...
Rock Climbing Photo: This is the first large face section of Down Under...
This is the first large face section of Down Under...
Rock Climbing Photo: Redrock amd vicinity.
BETA PHOTO: Redrock amd vicinity.

Comments on Down Under Add Comment
Show which comments
By Corey Baker
Dec 22, 2011
It's now a bit more clear a path to Down Under. Go around!! the storage units and follow the pipe line up the hill. At the top and across the trail on the right, there is tree stand in the tree with cairns leading the way to a decent trail. Follow it to Down Under. Bring a brush and clean some rock. Refer to the picture to find your way.
By DFrench
From: Cape Ann
Dec 22, 2011
Just wanted to add that as you are walking along the small cliff-line of Down Under towards Doug's Roof, you will be able to see the Cape Ann Veterinary Hospital (big brown building) off to your right (east).

If it is winter and the leaves are down, it will seem VERY CLOSE to you. So please be respectful by keeping noise to a minimum if it's during business hours. The owner is understanding of climbers, but let's keep that image positive.

Climb it while it's good! Once this cliff gets hit with ice, it will be June before we're climbing it again.
By welder1 Re
Nov 4, 2012
Heard there was some shit smeared around down there. Has it been cleaned at all?
By jim.dangle
Nov 9, 2012
Holds around Down Under seem shit-free as of 10/9/12.

By coldatom
From: Cambridge, MA
Jun 3, 2013
We found some fresh shit on the start of Blocks on 6/1/2013. Looked like dog shit, rather than from people. When we first got to the crag, I saw a woman by Doug's Roof, but she disappeared like a ghost when she saw us.
By ductapeclimber
From: Beverly MA
Sep 15, 2015
We found fresh shit on at the base of the climb on 9/12/15. Watch where you sit.

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