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Down Under Over

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Kookaburra Crack T 

Down Under Over Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Joe M., Old Timer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: jim.dangle on Oct 14, 2013


77° | 63°

77° | 60°

76° | 62°

77° | 64°

73° | 57°
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This is really part of Down Under, but it is hard enough to find that I thought it worth its own section. This is the back (northeast) side of the same buttress as Doug's Roof. The buttress is broken up and ledgy, but there are several small climbable sections mostly short face/slabs but a few nice cracks. Most of the climb is up high. Due to being ledgy, bouldering can be a bit dicey (wouldn't want to fall off the ledge).

Though quiet and secluded in spring and summer, there are houses nearby. With the leaves off, they are quite close, so keep a low profile.

Getting There 

This is close to the Down Under cliffs in the Hardy Mountain/Redrock area of Gloucester.

From Down Under, walk either right around Doug's Roof to the otherside of the buttress or left up the cleft and then down.

Climbing Season

For the Cape Ann area.

Weather station 4.1 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Down Under Over
Rock Climbing Photo: Kookaburra Crack (5.7) is on the left.  To the rig...

Kookaburra Crack 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  Massachusetts : Cape Ann : Down Under Over
This is a really sweet, albeit short, hand crack. Start out with nice hands, but it quickly goes to off-hands (yellow BD) requiring some fun, interesting jamming. That size is fairly uncommon around here, and, if it were steeper, it would be much more awkward. As it is, there are face holds that ease the grade (as does using the crack to the right). For full value, jam it the whole way up. There was an old, rotted tree and roots system that required some hefty cleaning. Remnants of it are s...[more]   Browse More Classics in Massachusetts

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