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Quartzite Wasteland
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Charcoal Burger Daydream T,S 
Down South T 
El Lagarto Borracho T,S 
Flip Ya Lid S 
Interstate Love Song T,S 
Left Project T 
Loss of Innocence S 
Something From Nothing T,S 
Twig and Berries T,S 

Down South 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: Mike Schneiter, March 21, 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 45
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Oct 8, 2008

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Down South at the Quartzite Wasteland, Glenwood Ca...

Description 

Down South is a quality line with sustained climbing and some "serious" sections." It goes with all gear but expect to do some good climbing above your gear. May be the best route on the wall and has been highly touted by those who have climbed it.

Shares the same start as El Lagarto Borracho before moving right and climbing the vertical crack system splitting the right edge of the face. Tricky gear and thoughtful climbing characterize the first third of the route before well-protected climbing leads to the final crux. Plug in a couple of cams in the last good horizontal before "punching" it on smaller holds and some thoughtful sequences that trend left before the anchor. This section may not be quite 5.11 but it will probably be considered R rated by most.

Expect to employ a wide variety of climbing techniques on this pitch as it stays "on you" the whole time.

Location 

Just right of El Lagarto Borracho, sharing the same start before moving right.

Protection 

Medium to large stoppers, a set of cams to #3 Camalot with extras in the tips to thin-hands sizes. Two bolt anchor.


Photos of Down South Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Down South at the Quartzite Wasteland, Glenwood Ca...
Down South at the Quartzite Wasteland, Glenwood Ca...
Rock Climbing Photo: Down South at the Quartzite Wasteland, Glenwood Ca...
Down South at the Quartzite Wasteland, Glenwood Ca...
Rock Climbing Photo: Down South at the Quartzite Wasteland, Glenwood Ca...
Down South at the Quartzite Wasteland, Glenwood Ca...
Rock Climbing Photo: Down South at the Quartzite Wasteland, Glenwood Ca...
Down South at the Quartzite Wasteland, Glenwood Ca...
Rock Climbing Photo: Down South at the Quartzite Wasteland, Glenwood Ca...
Down South at the Quartzite Wasteland, Glenwood Ca...
Rock Climbing Photo: Down South at the Quartzite Wasteland, Glenwood Ca...
Down South at the Quartzite Wasteland, Glenwood Ca...

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