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Monte Cristo
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Down South T 

Down South 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 700', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c Mod. Snow [details]
FA: James Garrett and Michael Franklin, April 1983
Season: Anytime
Page Views: 902
Submitted By: James Garrett on Aug 30, 2006

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Many 4th class snow or snow/rock ridge pitches to get to the south face of Monte Cristo. We did this in basically winter conditions and used ice axe and crampons to climb on the lower pitches, though the face was dry with some snow ledges encountered. We climbed in Mountain boots/crampons. Other seasons would facilitate using climbing shoes.

I enter this ascent now, as Franklin has passed on as other fine alpinists have and he shared with me a deep love for alpine exploration at a time in the Wasatch when many people thought the place was "climbed out". Seems strange now, but still so many "alpine routes" in the late winter or spring still await.


Middle of the south face of the South Summit of Monte Cristo Peak just to the west of Superior Peak. Descent was via South East Ridge of Superior but easier to descend the East Ridge to Alta.


We left a few pitons fixed, I remember. Nuts and cams would work well.

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