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Down in Albion 

YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c R

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c R [details]
FA: Will Stanhope
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring/Fall
Page Views: 2,829
Submitted By: hkennedy on Feb 19, 2013

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Will Stanhope on the FA Andrew Burr Photo

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A stunning route with wild feature slapping, committing face climbing and very thin gear. This route defines "new-school" Indian Creek climbing.

Difficult and scary feature climbing on the flare leads to the crux.
The crux is a burly traverse from the flare into Ruby's Cafe. The boulder problem is something like V7/8 with a nasty fall. Finish up on Ruby's.

Proud FA by Canadian hard-man, Will Stanhope.


Location 

Just right of Ruby's Cafe up the obvious flaring corner.

Protection 

Lots of thin stuff. The crux boulder problem is protected by two blades.

2 00 C3
3 Grey TCU
3 Purple TCU
3 Blue TCU
2 Yellow TCU
1 .4 BD


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