REI Community
Sun Towers
Select Route:
Betty and Ray's Adventure T 
Claret Cup Crack T 
Crack of Don T 
Daffy Duck Pinnacle T,S 
Dovercourt T 
Icarus Line aka The Thin White Line, The T 
Phaethon T 
Shady Character T 
Sunup S 
Twin Owls Center Route T 
Unknown T 
Unknown offwidth T 
Waitin' For Wane T 


YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bob and Lisa Eakle
Page Views: 4,939
Submitted By: Steve Marr on May 3, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Dovercourt, Lower Sun Tower, Unaweep Canyon.


Great route! Dovercourt is located at the very top of the Lower Tower and climbs to the highest point on the rock. Start opposite of a large dihedral at the base of the Upper Tower (the start of Betty and Ray's Adventure) at the base of a smooth, steep face.

The climb generally follows the thin, discontinuous cracks up the center of the face. Start left of the dihedral and climb the face to a small flake/overhang (good cam placement in the horizontal crack). Continue up past the route's lone bolt on small ledges. Above the bolt, the cracks tend to flare, and protection is more difficult to find (mostly small stoppers and TCUs in horizontal placements). Near the top, you can reach to the left and find some great hands on the arête. Finish at a two-bolt anchor just below the top and rap with a single rope (you can also down climb class 4 along the northwest corner). Fun route with thin holds and protection.


Small cams, TCUs, small stoppers and micronuts. One bolt and rappel anchors.

Photos of Dovercourt Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Location, location, location.
Location, location, location.
Rock Climbing Photo: Below Dovercourt.
BETA PHOTO: Below Dovercourt.
Rock Climbing Photo: Just above the route's one bolt.
Just above the route's one bolt.
Rock Climbing Photo: About mid-way up the route.  This is where the rou...
About mid-way up the route. This is where the rou...

Comments on Dovercourt Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matt Ting
Oct 8, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great route indeed - highlight of a day spent on the lower tower. The location is awesome with amazing views that add some exposure and excitement to this short route. True to the rating, nice horizontal cracks where you need them, good feet, good protection to be found (used 2 nuts, 3 s/med cams). For pure enjoyment, best 5.7 I've been on in awhile.
By Jeremy Werlin
May 17, 2010

Very high quality--pro may be tricky for a budding 5.7 leader. Excellent clean polished rock. Good shade route. Bring lots of small/micro cams.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Sep 17, 2013

Just want to mirror to comments, this is a stellar single pitch 5.7.

A must do if you're looking for a good moderate in the valley.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About