Dove Creek Wall Rock Climbing
The beautiful Superette Crack in the spring.
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
A new shady wall for The Creek!
Located in between the Optimator and Petrified Hornet walls, this crag has a nice variety of grades, with some modern classics, including a 5.9 called 99 Cent Tamale, that would make an ideal first lead for an aspiring Creek climber.
One of the coolest features about this wall is that you can climb here in the shade, and then move over to Optimator when it goes into the shade later in the mid-afternoon.
Gear beta for these climbs is more on the conservative side, and is in Camalots, with notes if in between sizes from Wild Country/Metolius are useful.
The Dove Creek Wall is best approached from the Optimator Wall. Hike down from Soul Fire and look for cairns that will lead you to the wall. The first climb you'll see is "Just Lie It Back" a moderate right facing dihedral off-width, marked by a plaque.
Watch out for poison ivy around the vicinity of the first couple climbs on the trail. We've removed it, but it grows back quickly and creeps up on the trail.
The wall can also be approached from Petrified Hornet, but the trail connecting the two is less established.
Weather station 14.1 miles from here
7 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Dove Creek Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Dove Creek Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Dove Creek Wall:
Featured Route For Dove Creek Wall
Superette Crack 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Utah
: Moab Area
: ... : Dove Creek Wall
The hardest route on the wall. Wasn't quite sure what to rate it, could be 5.13-, hopefully other folks will get on it and confirm the grade, or tell me I'm weak and its easy 5.12. Some creative stemming with small gear leads up to the crux, a burly, but short section of overhanging finger jams. After this its an enjoyable hand crack to a short off-width section that guards the anchor....[more] Browse More Classics in Utah
First ascent action with Tim Foulkes on the High C...
Tim and Keith working on the trail.
Crow bars - a necessity for new routing in Indian ...
By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Oct 5, 2015
Right on Luke! I walked this wall awhile back and remember a few lines sticking out, thanks for getting them done!
By Luke Mehall
From: Durango, Colorado
Oct 6, 2015
Thanks BJ. A whole ton of people worked to get this wall to where its at now...hit me up if you want to get on some new routes in The Creek!
By Devin Fin
Oct 7, 2015
Looks great Luke. Can't waight to get a chance to climb some of your new routes. Thank you an yer crew for all the hard work that it truely takes to develop a new wall..
By Jeff Scheuerell
Nov 22, 2015
Thanks for the work all. looking forward to checking some of these lines out.