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Doug Scott Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Doug Scott , Scott Baxter, Tom Taber, Lee Dexter, Karl Karlstrom, et al. (early 70's)
Page Views: 1,005
Submitted By: Will Cobb on Apr 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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The Doug Scott Route climbs out the right side of the Twilight Zone alcove. Start up a low angle slab then face climb up the right hand wall, around a small roof, the up a slab to the left. There is a nice tree to use as an anchor at the top of the route.

Descent - Rappel from a tree or take the walk down 100' to the climber's right.


Medium to Large Stoppers (the roof takes a perfect stopper placement)
Medium Cams
1 x #5 Camalot Optional

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By Larry Coats
Sep 1, 2007

First ascent Doug Scott (yes, THAT Doug Scott- in town for a slide show), Scott Baxter, Tom Taber, Lee Dexter, Karl Karlstrom, et al. (early 70's)
By ericm
Jun 14, 2011

Hey all,

I was up at West Elden yesterday and climbed a few of the classics and as always I feel the climbing is great. I do feel that the area needs some fixed anchors, especially on the Doug Scott Route, due to the rope eating crack that is caked with dirt. I believe fixed anchors would help because lets face it the top of this crag is a choss pile with myriads of new blow downs from all the dead trees. In this modern time of Flagstaff Climbing would anyone object-

By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 15, 2011

Hey Eric,

I don't climb there a ton, but last time I did Twilight Zone I thought it would be a service to add a set of anchors. I am sure there are quite a few pitches there in the same situation. I would see it as community service, but not all may agree with that.
By ericm
Jun 25, 2011

I agree that West Elden is in need of some anchors at the top. I noticed there are some anchors which I think are beneficial because I walked down recently and it was awful- The trail was obliterated due to the blow downs and this generally made for a bad experience. I would be willing to give time and anchors to make this happen-

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 14, 2012

thanks ericm! which routes did you put anchors on?
By ericm
Nov 2, 2012

Hey Darren,
I finally saw this post- I have not put anchors on anything up there, however I would like to- The walkdown is horrible anymore and the place needs some work- interested?

By Flex
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 14, 2014

There is now a 2 bolt anchor above Twilight Zone that makes a convenient descent for the Doug Scott Route. There are bolts with webbing and a biner now. It could use some quicklinks and chain.

This route is short but still very fun.

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