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Double Zues 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Seth Tart
Page Views: 280
Submitted By: S Tart on Jul 14, 2014

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Description 

Double Zues is a link-up route that starts on Double Dare and then climbs through Hercules and Season In Hell to finish on Zues. It is the longest route in The Garden and is primarily an endurance line with a red point crux protecting the anchors. It's great fun and flows exceptionally well.

Double Zues was a Greg Loomis brainchild. I suggested Zues or Double Dare and he said, "Why not Double Zues". The new link provides a good amount of new climbing sequences and the added value of some big air between the higher bolts.

Climb Double Dare to the 5th bolt, then continue out left to the jug on Hercules. Clip the Hercules bolt with a 24" runner. You could follow a large crack seam down and left from here but the line continues up and left through small holds to the large tooth feature on Season In Hell. Clip the bolt beside the tooth 24", then make for the anchors of Zues. You do not actually use any holds on Zues except for the anchor jug.

Location 

Climbs Double Dare to the 5th bolt. Then climbs up and left across the wall, eventually finishing on the anchors of Zues.

Protection 

Sport Route.


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