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Super Hits - Bloody Fingers
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Double Vision 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Reid Dowdle 1986
Page Views: 1,384
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jun 21, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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The wonderful dikes of Double Vision


This is the first sport climb to the left of Bloody Fingers. There is ground fall potential reaching the 3 bolt, so be careful.

That being said, this is a very fun route. It starts out with some thin moves, before reaching a quartz dike. The upper route can either follow the dike or the slab to the left. The well spaced bolts will lead you to a trad anchor on a ledge. Rap off of the anchors on top of Bloody Fingers.


Draws and 3 smallest tricams (or equilvalent) for the anchor.

Photos of Double Vision Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Hiiiigh Steppin' on Double Vision.
Hiiiigh Steppin' on Double Vision.

Comments on Double Vision Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
Oct 4, 2009

This ain't no "sport" climb....

I think Reid climbed this in '86. Yee haa!
By zoso
Oct 4, 2009

Seemed like there was a tiny nut placement in there somewhere. I led it before I had such equipment, so it was a little hairy to say the least.
By Blitzo
Aug 23, 2010

Not great, but good.
By Russell Fogle
From: Boise, ID
Oct 19, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

Typical delicate granite slab climbing. Scary fall potential. Small dish on top near the edge that you can brace your feet in for a belay, the addition of anchors would make this route a bit more enjoyable.
By zoso
Oct 20, 2013

"the addition of anchors would make this route a bit more enjoyable."

Bullshit. Much more interesting to build an anchor.
By Jack Lazar
From: Portland, OR
Jun 28, 2014

As of two days ago, this route definitely had bolted anchors. Also, I'd argue that the ≈ 1 foot wide quartz dike running straight up the wall, just to the right of the bolt line, greatly increases the route's aesthetic value and the overall experience. If you're looking for something to climb that's in the range of Bloody Fingers, you should at the very least drop a rope on this grippy bad boy if you don't feel comfortable leading it. 60 meters will serve you fine.
By Mike Marmar
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 5, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Fun route. The hardest (10a) moves are well protected. There are some delicate 5.9 moves way above your last bolt however.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Some scary fall potential, yes, but scary is different than dangerous.
If you blew a clip you could hit the ground with an inattentive belayer, but the climbing is protected better than that and PG is fair, but 'R' is really overstating it.

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