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Double Vee 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: FFA Bob Anderson and Henry Barber
Page Views: 3,097
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (73)
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Kate from Portland near the top.


Double Vee is a classic example of Cathedral 5.9+ and can feel really stiff until you get the beta dialed in. Then it only feels a little stiff. I know the first time I did it I threw in a few 5.12 moves where I could have saved some energy with better beta. It looks much more easy and straightforward than it is, so brace yourself...

Climb mostly face holds along a thin crack through the first "vee" notch. This gets you to a nice rest stance. Then head in to the second "vee" (small nut for protection) and on to a surprisingly challenging mantel finish.


To the right of Nut Cracker, look for the thin crack leading through two "vee" grooves. Hard to miss.


Regular rack with small nuts and TCUs to a tree with fixed rap anchor.

Photos of Double Vee Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading Double Vee, below the first Vee, with a cl...
Leading Double Vee, below the first Vee, with a cl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Otey climbing double V
Otey climbing double V

Comments on Double Vee Add Comment
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By Ladd
May 30, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Perfect example of Cathedral 5.9+
Must do for the 5.10 and harder Trad climber.
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Feb 24, 2009

I loved the hairy slopey mantels out of each V-notch...exciting!
By Bjorn
From: Leadvegas, CO
Jun 28, 2010

I don't know what consensus is talking about with this two and a half stars nonsense. This route is great fun.
By Nate R
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 13, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I agree the mantels were pretty exciting, especially the last one!

Great climb.
By Greg DeMatteo
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Jun 19, 2014

An impressive amount of climbing for such a short looking climb. The "vees" are exciting but not the crux in my opinion.
By Dankasaurus
From: Lyons, CO
Aug 16, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

This is a difficult and slippery climb. Make sure you get warmed up and have a good belay. The second Vee has a nasty surprise. Surely a deserving of the "Cathedral +" rating along with all the others at this old-school cliff.

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