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Turkey Tail
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acoplopse T 
Brush Turkey S 
Camera Obscura T 
Captain Hook S 
Chop, The T 
Consternation T,TR 
Dark Meat T 
Dark Side of the Moon T 
Double Trouble T 
Drumstick Direct T 
East Side Story T 
Easy Offwidth T 
Eclipse T 
For Turkeys Only T 
Gobble This T 
Hummingbird Way aka Snively's Crack T 
I Turkey/ Resurrection T,S 
In Search of Unicorns T 
Inner Reaches T 
Jello Party T 
Johnny Lat S 
Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitch) T 
Left Side of the Key T 
Live Fire T 
Make the Cut T 
Piece of Cake T 
Quiver and Quill T 
Rasmussen Crack T 
Roofus T 
Second Helping T 
Shoo Kitty T 
Shoobertapotamai Feathers T 
Sidewinder T 
Snake T 
Spider Lady T 
Squeeze Chimney T 
Termination T 
Turkey in the Straw T 
Turkey Turd T 
Turkey's Delight T 
Whimsical Dreams T 
Wild Turkey T 
Wudamudafuka (1st pitch) T 

Double Trouble 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown to me
Season: South-facing
Page Views: 1,835
Submitted By: Tom T on Mar 15, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Double Trouble follows the wide crack through two ...


Start in a great crack and continue up "widening" terrain until you reach the first roof. Surmount the first roof (5.9) and continue into a large slot. Devise a way to the base of the next roof where cryptic moves set you up for the grand finale. I really had fun on this one.

Although other options are available, the best belay is right after the final roof. Extend your clove hitch 5 or 6' to tend the rope running through the final roof. A belay any higher could leave your rope stuck in the piece(s) you place at the final roof.

IMO: 4 star moves that are not obvious from the ground with some 2 star rock quality in places.


Far east side of Turkey Tail...find the obvious double roofs.

Rappel off the east side of the formation or down climb the chimney to the north. The tat on the rappel was "crispy" and seemed old; we backed it up for the first person and left an extra biner.


Pro through 5" and several runners. I used 2 C4 #4 and 1 #5 and did some leap frogging. The belay I used took hand-size pieces.

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By Anus Herder
From: Montrose, CO
Sep 11, 2017
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

The second roof takes a C4 #6! C4 #5 hardly holds, she's wide! This one's a tough but a rad climb, I set up a belay after the 2nd roof with 0.5-1 c4s. Climbed P2 up and left to find the rap bolts...bring a 70m, the first rap is 105 ft and the second 75 ft.
By Ron Pivo
From: Westcreek
Sep 11, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Hey Anus,
Are you the one who left the twenty feet of rope dangling from the Roofus roof corner yesterday while rapping down? If so, you need to go back and clean up your mess. I'm tired of constantly cleaning up after the likes of you.

Nice MP alias.

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