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Double Stout (w/ extension) 

YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: D. Mabe 2009. FFA: Mark Anderson, 2015
New Route: Yes
Fixed Hardware: 7 Lead Bolts, 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 2,374
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Jan 27, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Starting up the engaging headwall.

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Description 

Double Stout is a 35m route offering two different styles - sustained techy face climbing and a powerful and dramatic bouldering roof problem. This is easily one of the longest routes of its grade in the Canyon.

Ok, so you have the first part wired and it feels like 5.11. Extend a long runner or back-clean at the chains, or you will be sandbagged by drag. The route crux boulders over the roof and may be significantly height-dependent (clipping the draw hanging in the roof is an indicator). Once over the roof, compose yourself in the copper scoop, then fight the pump on overhanging climbing and a few more overlaps. Naturally, one more sting-in-the-tail move guards the anchors. The rating of the route in its entirety may likely be 13+/14-.

A detailed write-up by Mark of his first free ascent, including pictures, may be found here.

Protection 

Bring nearly 15 draws of varied lengths to run the route smoothly in its entirety.

A 70m ROPE is MANDATORY.


Photos of Double Stout (w/ extension) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lookin' down this beauty from the last bolt.
Lookin' down this beauty from the last bolt.
Rock Climbing Photo: Grappling with the Double Stout roof.
Grappling with the Double Stout roof.

Comments on Double Stout (w/ extension) Add Comment
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By Phil Esra
Apr 21, 2015

The only person to send it so far is 5'7"; if you are taller than that, you may really struggle. The roof beta from the FA is here (and is mesmerizing):

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Apr 23, 2015

Great video feed, Darren, and what a brilliant ascent by Mark Anderson. We had rapped this sector back in the '90s figuring it to be possible by stronger, better climbers than us. The heel hook sequence through the roof, and the ability to pull through on it is worth endless study. This is an object lesson on how to climb powerfully, creatively, and boldly. Must have been terrific just to witness it.
By Justin Brunson
From: Broomfield CO
Apr 23, 2015

@phil - awesome video. That's some bouldering World Cup beta there.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 1, 2015

I want to add a 5th star to this route.
By ChrisHau
Dec 24, 2016
rating: 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a

Such a fantastic, improbable route and sequence. I felt totally giddy karate kicking my feet over my head with the ground a hundred feet below (and a little spooked at the thought of a headfirst fall).

For what it's worth, the bouldery roof still ends up being challenging if you can reach the slopey crimp at the lip (instead of campusing to it). The resulting cutting of feet is more violent and "twisty". I agree though, if you can't reach the first gaston in the roof, you're hosed.

Forget Rifle - next time I come to Colorado, I'm sticking to Clear Creek!

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