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The Old Woman - West Face
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Double Start 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dick Webster and Woody Stark, Feb. 1967
Page Views: 2,213
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jul 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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A nice chimney with fair protection. It gets its name from the fact that you climb a short chimney/flake on the left, then traverse right into the upper half of the more obvious chimney. Rappel off from the top.


This route is on the southwest face of Old Woman. It is the first major crack system to the right of Double Cross.


Gear to 4 inches.

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By M. Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 5, 2009

Descend by rapping either Double Cross or Sexy Grandma.
By Kyle Wills
From: Chicago, IL
Nov 25, 2009

Also, if you plan on knocking out some climbs on the east face, you can scramble easily over to the Toe Jam/bearded cabbage anchors directly across on the opposite side and rap from them.
By yosenhuttle
Mar 15, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Tricky move out of the chute at the beginning of the climb... 1st time I've ever used an elbow jam
By Ken Rose
Jan 3, 2016

1970 guide states: "The block halfway up is most easily passed to the left."
By Serge Smirnov
Feb 21, 2016

Really liked this route - clean, varied movement, easy to protect (YMMV).

I didn't actually find any 4" placements, and even the one 3" I placed (last move to the anchor) seemed optional. Did use doubles of everything smaller, though.

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