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Double Overhang T 

Double Overhang 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown pre-1983
Page Views: 1,875
Submitted By: Rob Alexander on Apr 2, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking back at the crux from the optional belay.


Right of Rad Dudes area, Left of the Great Arch Area.

Crux roof is clearly visible from the ground. Once you locate it, P1 is obvious as well.

Descend: 1 rap w/ two 60m ropes via the rib, Class 4 ramp, or corkscrew will get ya back on the ground. You could bring a sling/ring and rap from anchor tree, however be prepared for stuck ropes and having to walk around to the top.


Starting on the ledge past and above the Rad Dudes Area and about 25 ft right of SOBRIETY TEST, climb a grove past a birch tree and angle towards the (dying) Juniper Tree. Pass easily by a old shitty KB and go up slightly harder ground to the Juniper Belay. 5.5

For P2 go up open book corner capped by HUGE roof. once crouched inside the corner, undercling and smear to daylight and an optional belay. Then pass up easier ground to large hang and jug and foot work your way to easier ground and the top. Tree anchor.


Trad Pro, Nothing fancy needed.

P1 tree is looking a little dead, so I'd suggest some creative anchoring suggestions on the P1 belay ledge.

Photos of Double Overhang Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon coming off the start of P2.
Jon coming off the start of P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the second roof and top from the end...
Looking up at the second roof and top from the end...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan moving out the roof.
Ryan moving out the roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Shows the crux roof crack pretty clearly
Shows the crux roof crack pretty clearly
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down p2
Looking down p2
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 Double Overhang
BETA PHOTO: P1 Double Overhang

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By Josh Smethers
From: Malvern, pa
Aug 12, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13

First pitch was a breeze, which gave you a false sense of security for the secon pitch! First roof was at an awkward angle and fairly exposed. Second roof was totally fun and like a gym boulder problem. Well protected and big belay ledges.
By Larry S
From: Easton, Pennsylvania
Aug 24, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great route - One of the best I've been on at the Gap.

Some additional info - Start in the same spot as you would for corkscrew. First pitch goes direct to the Juniper at 5.5 pg. Possible belays at the juniper or any of the small ledges up to 20' above it if you want to be closer to the crux.

2nd pitch goes up pretty easily to the roof, where some commitment, good hand jams, and small edges for your feet will get you past. Possible belay just after the roof to prevent rope drag. If you continue to the top, be careful to keep the rope out of that roof crack. The second roof is more of a physical grunt on huge incut jugs. Gear is plentiful at both roofs.

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