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Double Kneebar Ranch 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 2,996
Submitted By: duh on Jan 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Jack on the "Double Kneebar Ranch" photo...


Double Kneebar Ranch starts to the left of Crossfire (5.12a). Steep, overhead slaps, underclings, kneebars, heelhooking. Local classic.


5 or 6 bolts to a chain anchor.

Photos of Double Kneebar Ranch Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Clark Eising climbing the upper headwall of Double...
Clark Eising climbing the upper headwall of Double...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jack on "Double Kneebar Ranch" (5.12b/c)...
Jack on "Double Kneebar Ranch" (5.12b/c)...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jack logging some air time on the Double Kneebar R...
Jack logging some air time on the Double Kneebar R...

Comments on Double Kneebar Ranch Add Comment
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By Michael Levato
Feb 27, 2012

there is a huge undercling missing from this climb. anybody know anything about it? book says its a 12d. its definitely 12d or harder now.
By duh
Mar 2, 2012

I'm pretty familiar with the route, done it dozens of times. Which undercling do you think broke? You can see them in the second pic on this page, red shirt. Id the hold.

By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
Jan 21, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I first climbed this post-undercling breakage, so I've never known it any other way. Definitely harder than 12b, but 12d seems slightly high. I think it's solid at 12c. This is one of those climbs you kind of just have to say is "hardish" 12, without getting hung up on specific letter grades. I've only climbed NJC over a hand-full of visits, so I lack comparisons. I did climb You Don't Know Jack (5.12c) and I thought Double Kneebar Ranch was longer, a bit more powerful, and slightly harder—at least for me.

Even though the crux was turning the lip and going to the jug, the upper headwall stays engaging. You can definitely fall up there if your attention wanes.

Super, super fun crux.
By duh
Feb 5, 2013

Seems like Andy has given a fair assessment of the grade. On the fa I rated it 12c/d. For what ever reason, when it came out in the guide book it was rated 12d. When Tom Linder did it, he thought it was soft at 12d, and he is right. But for my own reasons, when ever somebody starts spraying/ complaining about grades, I just think to myself FU and then sandbag the rating. I tried to change my 12b/c to a 12c but the site wouldn't let me make the change. Solid 12c seems to be a fair rating. You Don't Know Jack is easier and likely on the softer side of 12c.
By ACassebeer
From: Mojave, CA
Jan 11, 2015
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Regardless of the grade, I found this route to be excellent for the area. I think it's probably slightly easier than Lethal Weapon (or equal), and harder than Red Devil for sure. I would also say it's easier than Ride the Wild, which would put it at a solid 5.12c.

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