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Bell Buttress - Main Crag
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Arms Bazaar T 
Beethoven's Fifth T 
Bell Air T,S 
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Cosmosis T 
Daedulus Direct T 
Double Jeopardy T 
Epiphany T 
Epiphany Direct T 
Freak on a Leash S 
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Purpose, The T,S 
Route That Dan Missed, The T,TR 
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Spoiled Moose, The T 
Spoils, The T 
Three Minute Hero T 
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Verve S 
West Crack T 
West Face T 
Wrinkles T 

Double Jeopardy 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jim Erickson, free solo
Page Views: 1,416
Submitted By: slevin on Jul 10, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Looking up the chimney. Maybe only 5.8 if you can ...

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  • Description 

    Another 5.9 gear route for shade-seekers, this climb is actually better than it looks. Left of, and around the corner from Cosmosis, is an overhanging corner (The Spoils), and left a bit further is a prominent chimney with two hand cracks forming its margins (a recent bolted line climbs the right wall of the chimney). Brave a bit of initial funk, then jam and stem your way past the bulging chimney. Continue up, then right at a small overlap to a ledge and belay. Proceed up and right on wandering terrain to join upper Cosmosis. It is also possible to reach the anchors atop the first pitch of The Spoils (or the anchors atop Stu's bolt route), by moving right out of the chimney, or you can devise a way to move left to anchors atop Grand Inquisitor (unless my memory is failing me...a possibility, by the way).


    Double set wired nuts to 3" cams, or less.

    Photos of Double Jeopardy Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing the Double Jeopardy.  Photo: Bob Horan.
    Climbing the Double Jeopardy. Photo: Bob Horan.

    Comments on Double Jeopardy Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 27, 2001

    there are bolts next to the cracks near the top of this pitch thanks to Stu Ritchie
    By Anonymous Coward
    Apr 20, 2002

    These bolts need to be chopped! Sgt. Roly Poly and Sgt. Ritchie should quit spraying bolts near crax.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Apr 21, 2002

    Sgts. Roly Poly and Ritchie? Since when did those guys get a promotion? I thought they were merely sea-men on the poop deck.
    By Fred Knapp
    Jul 15, 2002

    I did this with you Steve. it's not that good. -Fred Knapp
    By Shawn Shannon
    From: Everett, WA
    Jan 3, 2003

    I've was a local of the South Platt and seen that area's Bolt Wars... while I wish there was no retrobolting and live for long trad days, I hope all Bolt War veterans head the newish conduct.

    Just remove the hangers... it'll do the job... when you start chopping and crowbaring things it's always the rock that loses no matter who is right. Somebody will come back, make a new hole etc...
    By Kirk Woerner
    Jul 1, 2004

    Anybody know the name/rating of the clip-up route on the face? Felt pretty hard down low.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jul 2, 2004

    I climbed the clip-up recently, as well. A half-star route that felt like easy-11 to me. Harder crux than Hound Dog but not as sustained.

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