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Upper Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bean Pole T,TR 
Bishop T,TR 
Bloody Fingers TR 
Chamonix TR 
Chimney, The T,TR 
Climber's Corner T 
Desperate Depression T,TR 
Diagonal T 
Double Chin T 
Double Jam T 
Fantastic Face TR 
Far Out Jam T,TR 
Far Out Jam Right T,TR 
High Anxiety (aka Silicon Shoes) TR 
Horn, The T 
Kiddie's Korner T,TR 
Loose Flake Polka TR 
Max Factor T 
Ms. Pac Man T 
No Answer T,TR 
Obscene Phone Call T 
PB & J T,TR 
Pee Pee The Sailor TR 
Roof, The T 
Short Stuff T,TR 
Start, The T 
Tramp, The T,TR 
Yellow Zonkers T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Double Jam 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,579
Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 5, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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Joe on double jam

Description 

Jam and grovel your way up the double cracks using hand and fist jams and even butt jams to gain a rest ledge on the right.... Climb back to the left and place your big cam then fire the last few feet....

A fun, beginner climb good for getting folks to think outside of the box....

Location 

Walk left along the cliff from Obscene Phone Call (5.8).... A short distance along look for an alcove with a double crack in a corner.... The cracks start from a ledge that is easy to access, you climb the two cracks to a short, off-width section to the top....

Protection 

A few wide cams #3 and #3.5 Camalots are nice and an OW piece as well, #5 maybe....

Easily top-roped from trees.


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By Adam Wilcox
From: Candia, NH
Aug 23, 2008

I found a #5 to be too big to really use where I wanted it up top. A #4 fit pretty well.

Awkward, grubby top-out, but still fun.
By Russ Keane
Oct 20, 2013

This is one tough, tough 5.5. I would call it a sandbag, if it wasn't for the consistency otherwise, with respect to the ratings of the other crack climbs up there at Upper Cliff. Basically add 1 numeral to your thoughts on how this climb will feel. It was like a 5.6 anywhere else (except Gunks lol).

Awkward, and a little scary actually. Fun though! Although that top section after the ledge is plain old horrible. Makes you think. Makes you commit. And it makes you kind of shake in your boots.
By JayMorse
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
Nov 12, 2016

This is a G-Rated lead with just a #3 and #4 cam, with some strategic bumping up and leapfrogging of the cams (from very comfortable secure positions). A .75 may be nice at the ledge before going for the top out and before you can reach the final #4 cam placement. I also agree on 5.6, if only for the top-out moves.