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Double Indemnity 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 928
Submitted By: Sean Nelb on Jun 17, 2011

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Bill lugg getting that stem on double indemnity. ...

June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This route is not as famous as El Matador, but the concept is the same; protect in a finger crack and jam/stem your way up the opposed dihedrals. Once the crack thins to tips up high, make a hard traverse right around a column and follow an easier crack to anchors in about 15 ft. This route puts you within spitting distance of the 1893 ladder. Look, but don't touch!


Just to the right of Bon Homme.


Finger and thin-hand sized pieces.

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By Jeff McLeod
Nov 1, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Classic stemming, reminiscent of El Mat, but somewhat easier because there are a few intermediate rests and it's a bit more narrow. I think the crux is fair at .11a, by the time I got there I was so worked that I couldn't figure out the sequence. 2nd try, upon further examination though, it went. For the last 30-40 feet of the stem box I was looking around the face for where to traverse over, you'll know when to do it - the crack disappears and you gotta get out of there.

For what it's worth, there were a few wasp nests in the crack on this pitch when we did it. They weren't super hostile but the encounter was certainly not amicable either. Nevertheless, my partner and I both finished it un-stung.

You can rap the first pitch with one 70m rope.
By t.schwartz
Nov 2, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

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