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Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 

Double Feature 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Petefish et al. 1987
Page Views: 612
Submitted By: Paul Heyliger on Jul 16, 2003

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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Double Feature begins in the first crack left of the obvious Vulture pillar/crack and two cracks right of Jerry's Kids on the West Face. This is the same start as Pee Pee's Plunge, but quickly steps left into the next crack system. Protection is good, but this route does not lace as easily as most Tower lines. The main crux comes at about 2/3 height, just above a locker nut and good rest, and involves splayed stemming and face moves that ease a bit at a bolt. Depending on the season, the crack just below the bolt can be grassy, hiding some decent HB placements. The route then angles up and left, across a superb shield of rock, passing two more bolts and one milder crux to the JK belay.

This is a high quality route that would be 3 stars anywhere else. At the Tower, there is just too much competition.


Small-medium stoppers, RP's or HB's, TCU's, and a hand-sized cam. Tricams also work well.

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By Sean Nelb
From: Indian Creek
May 14, 2011

This route has some amazing climbing with unusual moves for the tower. Although it follows a crack, it often feels more like a face climb. I thought the bottom was a bit heady: gear can be found but it is not ideal. The rest of the route protects well, especially the crux.

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