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Double Down 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 260'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Philip Matena, Vlada Matena, Tom Rogers (2014)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 629
Submitted By: Vlada Matena on Aug 17, 2015

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Vic Madrid on Double Down.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The route starts in a small depression 400 feet left of the toe of the Buttress and 200 feet above and to the left of a large crack that runs diagonally left and up the North Buttress. There is a discolored rock pattern on the right side of the depression, and a short crack runs up the face through the back of the depression.

The first pitch goes up the face a few feet to the left of the crack. The second pitch follows the flakes to the right and ends on top of a pedestal.

Pitch 1 (5.7) 140 feet. 5 bolts and an optional 1-2" cams in horizontal cracks to protect climbing before the first bolt.

Pitch 2 (5.4) 80 feet. Cams: 1 each 1.25-3”. Optional extra 2”.

Descend: Two 60 meter ropes are required to rappel. A single rappel with two 60m ropes from the pitch 2 anchor leads to a short third-class walk-off to the ground. It is possible to rappel with a single 70m rope using 2 rappels.

GPS N37.86229 W119.39870.


Photos of Double Down Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Philip Matena and Tom Rogers on the second ascent ...
Philip Matena and Tom Rogers on the second ascent ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Philip Matena hand-drilling a bolt on the FA lead.
Philip Matena hand-drilling a bolt on the FA lead.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the route from Pitch 2 anchor. Philip...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the route from Pitch 2 anchor. Philip...
Rock Climbing Photo: Philip Matena starting the FA. Notice the cam plac...
BETA PHOTO: Philip Matena starting the FA. Notice the cam plac...

Comments on Double Down Add Comment
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By Ben Townsend
Jul 27, 2016

Nice climbing, with bolts nearby at the hard bits. Careful rappelling with a single 70 -- it gets you to reasonable downclimbing, not necessarily to the ground.

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