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Double Down 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Rick Leitner, February 2000
Page Views: 2,830
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Sep 9, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (69)
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BETA PHOTO: Double Down. The 10a crux is a thin face move pas...

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  • Description 

    Double Down is on the right side of south face of Surprising Crag, just left of Frictionary.

    Climb a steep face past two bolts to a ledge. Angle up right to a second steep face, which can be climbed either left (5.9) or right (5.7) of the bolt line.

    The crux is a thin face move past the first bolt; easier if you're tall. This move can be bypassed by climbing the corner to the right then stepping back left at the second bolt.

    The entire route can be done as a 5.7 by climbing the corner right of the initial face and climbing the crack right of the upper face.


    6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

    Photos of Double Down Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jeremy belays me on Double Down (5.10a).
    Jeremy belays me on Double Down (5.10a).
    Rock Climbing Photo: Me on upper cracks of DD.
    Me on upper cracks of DD.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jenna at the top of Double Down.
    Jenna at the top of Double Down.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Amato cranking the crux face move past the fi...
    Mike Amato cranking the crux face move past the fi...

    Comments on Double Down Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ken Cangi
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Aug 21, 2007
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    A waste of good hardware. This is one of the most contrived routes in the park, and the bolts spoil the natural corner right next to it.

    It felt like 5.8 without using the corner. I really wish people would think more carefully before bolting right next to natural lines. Not every square inch of rock needs a bolt.
    By Adam Kagy
    Jun 19, 2008

    It's a shame that this was bolted. A prime example of the over bolting done at sport park...Other than that it's easily protected all the way to the anchors. Makes a nice first trad lead.
    By Matt Gates
    From: Pinewood Springs, CO
    Sep 1, 2008

    Did the 7 crack variation with good gear all the way. Good beginner gear route.
    By Bracken Christensen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 3, 2009

    By being bolted, you get to do one interesting face move at the start (I'm short, so getting to the good hands was a bit tenuous). After that, the route is uninteresting.
    By TJ Binkley
    From: Denver Co
    Sep 21, 2010

    Without the bolts up the face, the climb is less than start if you can "suffer" through the bolts.
    By Larry Shaw 1
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 21, 2017

    Silly route, but the upper bolted face next to two cracks was fun, or at least all 15ft of it.

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