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Rock Garden Valley - Left Side
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Beck's Bet T 
Candyman TR 
Double Dogleg T 
Euthyphro T 
Fortune Cookie T 
Griffin, The T 
Holly Device T 
Lewd and Lascivious Conduct T 
MZM (Maria Zink Memorial) T 
Personal Space TR 
Pop Rocks T 
Rock Candy T 
Rock Dog Candy Leg TR 
Rock-a-Lot T 
Silent But Deadly T 
Smithereens T 
Spitwad T 
Split Personality T 
Top of the Pops T 
Unknown T 
Yi T 
Young Lust T 

Double Dogleg 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Kevin Powell, Dan Ahlborn and Tim Powell, April 1976
Page Views: 7,752
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 5, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (241)
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Double Dogleg


This enjoyable route, with it's secure jams, good protection and fun moves make this is recommended route to do when in the area. This was also the first route climbed on the wall and it's name a take-off on the popular Dogleg in Hidden Valley CG. Three stars out of five.


This is the distinctive zig-zag crack system near the right end of the wall that is just left of Split Personality.


Gear to 3".Anchors on top (3/8"). Depending on how much pro is placed you may want to take some slings to cut down on rope drag.

Photos of Double Dogleg Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Seconding and obviously having a great time!
Seconding and obviously having a great time!
Rock Climbing Photo: Sheryl cruising Double Dogleg (5.7), Joshua Tree N...
Sheryl cruising Double Dogleg (5.7), Joshua Tree N...
Rock Climbing Photo: Double Dogleg. Photo cred: Jacob Wakter
Double Dogleg. Photo cred: Jacob Wakter
Rock Climbing Photo: My second ever lead in Joshua Tree, Double Dogleg
My second ever lead in Joshua Tree, Double Dogleg
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian following up
Brian following up
Rock Climbing Photo: Toprope on double dogleg
Toprope on double dogleg
Rock Climbing Photo: Neale about to hit the crux
Neale about to hit the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Double Dogleg
Double Dogleg
Rock Climbing Photo: double dogleg on cold rock
double dogleg on cold rock

Comments on Double Dogleg Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 8, 2017
By Steve Powell
Apr 29, 2003

this is a really nice route. one of my favorites.
By Kevin Currigan
From: Lakewood
Feb 11, 2004

We climbed this last week and on second my hands were frozen by the time I reached the top. Great little route but was it ever cold. I believe this route faces north so be advised if you're climbing in February.
By Richard Beller
Mar 23, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a superb crack climb -- as good as any 5.7 in the park.
By Jason Shatek
Apr 7, 2005

K, this is about the easiest 5.7 in the park. Easily protectable but few hand jams until you get to the top. There are many good stances where the crack jogs to the left.
By Joseph Lee
Oct 14, 2005

I'm into having fun and this climb is all that. Great feet. Not that hard for 5.7 so a good climb to lead.
By Scott Edlin
From: boulder, co
Apr 12, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

this route is pure fun! it's pretty easy for a 5.7, gobbles up all kinds of pro, great jamming, excellent rock quality, and abundant face holds make for very comfortable stances.
By Jonathan Bent
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 27, 2008

Great crack, excellent movement, and easy for a classic 7 (not the easiest in the park, though). However, I'll say that for folks new to crack, and used to vertical gym climbing, negotiating the diagonal section can be a non-intuitive combination of hand-jamming, and finding (good) feet below the crack. For my second it was more intuitive to put feet in the crack and stand up, leaving her with little to hold on to for hands above. Much easier, of course, to keep hands in the crack as much as possible and seek the good-to-bomber feet beneath and to the left. A really enjoyable climb for me, as it provided such good jams/holds and interesting 2-dimensional movement (read: not just up-down). A great way to end the day...
By Colin Parker
From: Idyllwild, CA
May 22, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Like the others say, It's a great 5.7, and solid for the grade. Not my personal favorite, but it makes you think since its diagonal. Also try the Split Personality variant!
By DaveGustafson
From: Palm Desert, CA
Nov 7, 2009

Could not disagree more that this is the "easiest 5.7 in the park". IMO, there are a number of 5.7's that are significantly less difficult than this route.
It's a fun 5.7 route that protects well. Fun moves throughout. While it wouldn't be a route that I would suggest for a newbie, I'd recommend for a competent 5.7+ (JTree) climber. Enjoy!
By Chris D
From: the couch
Apr 26, 2010

Climbed this for the first time yesterday and found it took gear well, primarily cams. The first section of the left-trending part of the crack was definitely the crux for me. Just to add to the discussion of relative difficulty, I found this route more difficult than Double Cross, but then I like to jam, and this route involves extensive use of the face.

What I really like about this route is (unlike many 5.7s in the park, and elsewhere) you really have to be planning ahead for your feet. If you don't, you're going to be in trouble. Usually on 5.7 routes you have a lot of options. I think if you just tried to power up this route and flail around with your feet you'd be in in that sense it's unique.

Also I think it has one of the finest summit views in the park.

Save this one for near sunset on a hot spring day.
By UpRope
Nov 9, 2010

This route protects well, jams well, and the hand jams and footwork are in coordinated sync.A Joshua Tree 'must do'
By Wesley Stupar
From: Glendora
Apr 23, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun safe climb. Lots of solid medium-sized pro opportunities.

As you step up on top, there are two 3/8" bolts to your left (belay anchor) and two rap ring bolts down to your right.
By Canon
Feb 1, 2012

Fair for the grade. Nothing special. Lots of features around the crack that make jams pretty unnecessary. On top are two anchors, 2 bolts and hangars up and left from the top out, and 2 bolts/hangars/rap rings down and right from the top out. Either is about equidistant from the line (10ft), but both would benefit from an extendo if TRing it.

Also, you can scramble to the top of the climb by working south up the "valley" from the base of the climb, and around to the right.
By Climb To Safety
From: california
Feb 15, 2013

Chilly day, the rock was cold, and the summit was extremely windy. Still the view and the climb made up for the cold weather. I haven't done many, but this is one of my favorite 5.7 climbs at Joshua tree. Top notch.
By David S.
From: San Francisco, CA
May 25, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Have to say, having done White Lightning after this on the same day, this is a much easier 5.7 than I would expect for JTree. Good solid lead, but I barely had to jam. Only required jams were at the very top.

Still, the left leaning line makes it interesting. Like an easier version of The Flue. I used gear up to a #3 Camalot, mostly above the .5 size.
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Oct 26, 2014

Super fun route!
By Crackson
Apr 2, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Soft for the grade, but amazing and totally worth it
By Brian morin
From: Simi Valley, CA
May 8, 2017

Here's beta spray on pro I used: 1st lead placed .75, #1, #3, .5, #2. 2nd lead placed .75, .75, #1, #3, #1, #1

Set up gear anchor at the top to bring up 2nd with two #3s and a .75 or #2

Cruiser with great stances for gear the whole way. Perfect from someone breaking into the grade as it's one of the easier 5.7s in jtree. Vertical climbing with lots of great features

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