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Double Decker 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Season: Cool weather
Page Views: 361
Submitted By: bspiewak on Nov 22, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Photo taken from the big red boulder

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>


Lowest right side of the wall. From the the big obvious red boulder, look at the wall and remember these photos...

Two bolts easily seen from the ground lead to the first short crux corner above a ledge. Extend the 3rd bolt several feet, or belay off the ledge above.
Above the 3rd bolt walk the ledge to it's right side. Optional belay here off additional gear(1"-3"), recommended in order to reduce rope drag if you don't like long extensions off your pro. Lieback the crack above, or step right off the ledge and jam the crack (crux). A bolt above draws you out left, stay even with or below the bolt for the traversing move left. A right trending crack leads to the rest of the bolts above. Bolted rap anchor.

The route climbs the margin of a large broken, loose area to the right. Don't rap or lower into this area.

From the anchor make one 95' rap down the slab to the right. Trend hard right.

From the optional gear belay off the ledge 50' up the route you can be lowered to the start of Bruzer Head with a 60 meter rope, again trending right.


Singles to 4". Onsight you'll want to double up on finger and hand sizes. 9 bolts. Long runners, 24/48".

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Rock Climbing Photo: Double Decker
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