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Double Decker 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 1,129
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Mar 18, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Difficult to place protection and fairly runout. This climb may be better left as a toprope. Climb up to a double crack system that doesn't quite touch bottom. This climb is very difficult for 5.6. Anchor is set with large cams.


Nuts, small cams

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By Colin Parker
From: Idyllwild, CA
Apr 6, 2009

Climbed this yesterday, and warnings should be more precise. This is 5.8, and somewhat complex even at that grade. Inexperienced leaders beware, you may find yourself dogged from delays at certain moves or gear placements and running out of strength quickly. It's by no means a bad climb though and fortunately you can always bail and finish on cracks to the right if you get stuck. :-)
By Donno
From: Newport Beach
Apr 3, 2010

Just led this 10 years after backing off. Dead vertical but not hard to protect; many small cams went in. It's a little runout at the very top after a small stopper placement, but the difficulty eases off. Exciting lead for a 5.8 leader.

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