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Total X 2 T 

Double Cross 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Les Ellison, Carl Buckland, 1982
Page Views: 2,135
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 19, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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BETA PHOTO: Start is potentially dangerous. A lot of people ge...


This is the lowest of all the Watchtower routes. It climbs a right facing, right leaning crack, and finishes with an off-width almost squeeze chimney. This climb protects well, but messes with your balance all the way up. Easy walk-off.


Bring medium gear for the main crack, and a large piece. I used a hex, for the exit crack.

Photos of Double Cross Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: From below the belay ledge.
BETA PHOTO: From below the belay ledge.
Rock Climbing Photo: W/o lines
BETA PHOTO: W/o lines
Rock Climbing Photo: 1)  Double Cross  2)  Go For the Roses
BETA PHOTO: 1) Double Cross 2) Go For the Roses

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By Steve Allison
Sep 28, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Shot but tough. Deceptively Dangerous Beginning. We top roped Double Cross by tying into the base of the tree at the top. (Walk up is immediately to the right up trail.)Webbing slung down into the exit crack where the rope began. The bulge at the beginning is fun to get over but dangereous unless you can get protection above it. But by the time you do that you're over it. Easy to slip backward off bulge and pancake on deck. It looks easier than it is. The bottom 1/3 of the crack is rounded out. The more you grab it the more you slip out. Opposed right leg stretched out finally got me over the bulge.
By Arie
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
Jun 1, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Definitely a solid climb- solid for its grade, solid gear, and mostly solid holds- save some solid fuel for the exit- it can be a humid pump.
By jason Wisniewski95
From: Salt Lake City
Oct 5, 2014

I Lead this route the other day and i used smaller nuts at the bottom and a #2 before the off width/chimney . The bottom bulge is tricky and slick and the protection through the middle section is tough to find. But it's a solid 5.8 really fun, looks a lot easier than it is.
By Paul Wilhelmsen
From: sandy, ut
Jun 10, 2015

Stellar climb. Don't let the "potentially dangerous beginning" scare you off. Any climb is potentially dangerous.
It's got a long running flared seem that accepts some gear and spits other out. Get into a stance that won't pump out your calves and place good gear. That's the crux IMO.
I loved every second of this climb.
By Crag Turkey
From: Holladay, UT
Aug 23, 2016

While this is a tad awkward, its a full value 5.8 gear lead, and this is Fergy so ya... I always wrote it off as it looked so easy, but It got me thinking more than I would expect. This reminds me of a shorter and less sustained Presiding Nymph. certainly worth a couple stars and probably the easiest TR up there.
By MountainBroTroll
Nov 17, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Very interesting. Tricky start with slick holds, protection is there (nuts help) but you probably wouldn't want to fall in the first 10 to 15 feet or so - if you do deck it's gonna hurt and you'll roll off the belay ledge. Thought that the exit was the crux.

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